Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Don Reid, Jay Fiske, 10/75
Page Views: 3,399 total · 23/month
Shared By: Will S on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


128 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

[Start] about 20' left of the start of Five and Dime at an obvious right facing corner with a crack system on the left face and another in the back of the corner. Serves as the standard warm up pitch. Great pro, mainly in the tight hands size, but will take from fingers to fist at different points. At the top, I've always went into the chimney rather than stay in the crack on the left face. Crux is about halfway up, transitioning between the crack systems with cool stemming. The chimney section will pro with hand or fist sized pieces, but is short, secure and easy.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware.

Photos

Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
If you keep on the face the climbing is really fun, but maybe a little bit harder (5.8+)? Recommended. Dec 1, 2008
Dave Alden
Sacramento, CA
  5.8 PG13
Dave Alden   Sacramento, CA
  5.8 PG13
Very fun corner and some of the cleanest granite I've ever seen. Would love to repeat anytime. Feb 28, 2011
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
I agree with Scotty that going direct was cool, and harder. I'd say more like a couple of 5.9 moves, but if you save a .5 and .75 it's very comfortable. Stepping right into the chimney is still fun, but doesn't seem as cool. Sep 3, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware. Apr 28, 2014