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Routes in 22 - Five and Dime Cliff

Anti-Christ, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bijou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chump Change T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copper Penny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five and Dime T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inner Reaches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keystone Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mockery S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whack and Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Don Reid, Jay Fiske, 10/75
Page Views: 3,075 total, 23/month
Shared By: Will S on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

[Start] about 20' left of the start of Five and Dime at an obvious right facing corner with a crack system on the left face and another in the back of the corner. Serves as the standard warm up pitch. Great pro, mainly in the tight hands size, but will take from fingers to fist at different points. At the top, I've always went into the chimney rather than stay in the crack on the left face. Crux is about halfway up, transitioning between the crack systems with cool stemming. The chimney section will pro with hand or fist sized pieces, but is short, secure and easy.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware. Apr 28, 2014
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
I agree with Scotty that going direct was cool, and harder. I'd say more like a couple of 5.9 moves, but if you save a .5 and .75 it's very comfortable. Stepping right into the chimney is still fun, but doesn't seem as cool. Sep 3, 2013
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.8 PG13
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.8 PG13
Very fun corner and some of the cleanest granite I've ever seen. Would love to repeat anytime. Feb 28, 2011
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
If you keep on the face the climbing is really fun, but maybe a little bit harder (5.8+)? Recommended. Dec 1, 2008