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Routes in 22 - Five and Dime Cliff

Anti-Christ, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bijou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chump Change T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copper Penny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five and Dime T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inner Reaches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keystone Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mockery S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whack and Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt, Tim Auger, & Jerry Anderson - April, 1973
Page Views: 1,582 total, 16/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Dec 13, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The technical crux on this one is the .7 squeeze (very secure). The mental crux is pitch two. It is reminiscent of the top of Chingando (cavernous).

All climbers should try some Chuck Pratt routes, and this is an easier one. A favorite among Yosemite obscurity lovers.

Location

Approach same as for Five and Dime. Just continue toward the eastern side of the cliff. Walk past a huge left facing chimney system and continue east. Look for a flake/pillar with a squeeze on the left side. This is the start. After the climb, walk/scramble off to the east. Then walk through the tunnel to the pullout at Reed's.

Protection

Standard rack plus all your wide gear. #5, and #6 friend for sure. Slings.

Photos

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Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7
The first pitch ascends the left side of a fractured tower. Does anyone know what the right side goes at? You can merge with the 5.7 route at the 'cave' section, and it looks pretty interesting.

A #6 BD Cam can be helpful for protecting the earlier squeeze on P1 until you can reach inside deep enough to place a small cam in a seam. Bring 1-2 #5s for P1 pro. You can break this up into 2 pitches and set up a belay inside the cave (I accidentally did this as I wasn't sure when the pitch ended).

On P2 get ready to commit once you enter the squeeze! It seems like you could fall out in the first body-length if you get careless, but really the crux is moving anywhere. Once you get deeper in the squeeze you just chimney up without pro until you tunnel behind a chockstone.

The ending of both pitches were a tad grimy, but otherwise this was a really clean climb. On P2 I traversed left after the wide section as the direct crack was covered in lichen. Jan 10, 2012
vincent L.
Redwood City
 
vincent L.   Redwood City
 
A really interesting two pitch route . Pitch one is a wide, slightly awkward crack to a tunnel move with little pro . Pretty easy chimneying though . Second pitch is a 12 inch squeeze crack that is virtually unprotectable , but once inside you cannot really fall out , mentally more challenging that physical , although it is that too . Well worth your time , old school rock climbing . Nov 5, 2011