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Routes in 22 - Five and Dime Cliff

Anti-Christ, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bijou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chump Change T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copper Penny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five and Dime T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inner Reaches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keystone Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mockery S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whack and Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Barry Bates and co, 1971
Page Views: 8,332 total, 61/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag. It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack. The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one.

Location

From the left side of the wall, this is the fifth line. Locate the obvious crack line with a pod-like feature midway. The start is slightly bouldery along some knobs up to a ledge twenty feet from the ground.

Protection

Nuts and cams from small fingers (Green alien) to #3 Camalot. Single rack should suffice.
rafael
Berkeley, CA
rafael   Berkeley, CA
certainly a hard lead, but not PG13 by any measure. The first gear isnt far from the ground, and from there on up the gear is great. Def 2 grades harder than the 10d section of serenity crack, the crux of that climb isnt overhanging, and is bomber first knuckle locks, whereas the crux of this climb is slightly overhangning ringlock.
I suspect the grade would be 5.11a if not for the name of the climb, I mean, I cant bring myself to rate it 5.11 here May 30, 2017
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.10d
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.10d
For additional reference, Five and Dime felt harder than these other Yosemite 10d's: Moratorium p1 & 2, Serenity Crack p3, Gold Dust, Fly Girls

Felt easier than these other Yosemite 10d's: Final Exam, Book of Revelation p1, Conductor Crack Aug 12, 2016
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
 
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
 
Great climb to test your Valley 5.10 skills. Goes through a lot of different jams, but placing gear off the thin hands was the crux for me. Steep and sustained. Thank God for the bomber hand jams near the top! Apr 3, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
100% agree Nov 11, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c/d
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c/d
Never found Five and Dime too stout. Now Finger Licken on the other hand. Nov 10, 2015
T-rack
Merced, CA
  5.10d
T-rack   Merced, CA
  5.10d
"People say that if you can lead this climb, you can lead any 5.10d in the Valley. I can't vouch for that opinion, but I've done 11's that I thought were easier." -Andy

I heard the same thing from a Ranger I was climbing with. (not a climbing ranger but skilled nonetheless) Nov 10, 2015
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.10c PG13
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.10c PG13
Very fun route, but a hard lead! Feb 28, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
In the Sierra Club mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10d thin cracks were; Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five and Dime, and Leaning Meany. Jan 31, 2011
Yes, Five and Dime is definitive 5.10d. Finger Lickin' is also. But you should try to lead Mark Of Art.
On a different note, Barry Bates' climbs are the best! Open the Don Reid guide to the first assent section and look for his name. Then head out and do 'em! You will not become weak on a steady diet of Barry Bates climbs. Dec 13, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I'll second that opinion; Five and Dime is every bit the grade. People say that if you can lead this climb, you can lead any 5.10d in the Valley. I can't vouch for that opinion, but I've done 11's that I thought were easier. Mar 24, 2008
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
It'd be tough to squeeze more sustained difficulty into the .10d rating. This climb makes you earn it. Sep 25, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10d
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10d
One of the best. Face to gently overhanging crack, opening from fingers to cups. The business section is mostly thin hands/rings so rack accordingly. I had doubles in .75 and 2 camalots and was happy to have them. Jun 6, 2007