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Routes in 22 - Five and Dime Cliff

? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Anti-Christ, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bijou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chump Change T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Copper Penny T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five and Dime T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inner Reaches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keystone Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Markery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mockery S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickel Bag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whack and Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad
FA: Ajax Greene, Don Peterson, 4/76.
Page Views: 1,075 total · 8/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Climb face an a corner to the right of "Five and Dime".

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

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Crack felt really slick inside, and lieback really difficult. Sorta dirty apart from that..definitely not ideal Oct 27, 2014
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
This climbs better than it looks. Face, lieback, a mini easy chimney/tube. Like some other routes at this cliff, I think this route could benefit from a rap station at the top.. in this case on the far right to keep down rope drag. This would solve 2 problems 1) belaying from the eroding dirt covered cliff edge creates erosion -- especially if your follower weights the rope as the rope basically gets forced to run through a dirt filled small gulley 2) the erosion basically rains down on the follower the whole time. I wonder if the other commenter here was experiencing dirt created by the belay of either a previous party or theirs.

Pro is bomber, moves are fun and the crux is physical. Interesting climbing getting established in the chimney. Would get 1 more star if the belay could be set up more pleasantly. Oct 25, 2017

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