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Routes in Midland

Lay of the Land S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nameless Tower, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet and Sticky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violent Phlegms S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 282 total, 2/month
Shared By: Andrew Cheung on May 25, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Juggy start on the right side of an arete follows up balancy moves on the arete itself, finishing with thin footwork on the face supplemented by a slopey rail formed by the arete. Unique in that it begins in the shade and finishes in the sun; the difficulty ramps up once you move out of the shade.

Super comfortable belay seat in the crook of the burnt out tree.

While probably not run out by most standards, relatively to the rest of the routes at Exit 32, the gap between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is sizeable--don't fall, you'll probably hit the ground (not sure why it's this way...).

Unfortunately, viewable from the hiking trail, so you may receive a running commentary of your climb from passersby.

Location

Follows the obvious arete coming from the burnt out tree. Scramble up to the belay (careful, it's mossy and slick). Rap or lower off the chains.

Protection

9 bolts plus chains at top

Photos

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Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Horn can also be slung with a runner in lieu of placing a cam on run out (easy) climbing. It is quite the space w/o any pro though. Aug 14, 2017
cashmab  
This is probably my favorite 5.9 at North Bend. Very fun arete route with almost alpine feel. A little soft for the grade, but the finish is a little delicate. Surprised most folks only give it 2 stars. May 8, 2017
There's a significant runout on easy ground between the 3rd and 4th bolt. A 0.4 BD cam can protect. Jun 19, 2016
The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge.

I believe the route is also now fully bolted; no serious runouts and no gear required. Apr 10, 2016
Small cams and nuts protect the runouts between bolts. Can lower with a 50m rope from the second anchor. Aug 7, 2006