Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,241 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jason D. Martin on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Going Nuts is a spectacular little route on the upper tier of the Solar Slab Wall. It is also an excellent way to pass slow parties on Solar Slab proper.

The route can be found in a dark corner on the far left hand side of the Solar Slab Wall.

Pitch One:

Climb the obvious crack up into a band of broken black rock. Build a belay shortly after the crack runs out on at a small stance. The name of the route is probably derived from the fact that most of the potential belay stances require one to use nuts for an anchor.

Pitch Two:

Continue up and left. Be aware that some of the black rock is loose. Climb up to the large ledge that makes up the top of the arch on Solar Slab Wall. Belay from here.

Descent:

Walk across the large ledge to the right. One must either bushwack a bit to keep away from the exposure, or step out on the ledge above the arch to attain the descent. After crossing the ledge you will find a set of bolts at the top of the second pitch of Solar Slab. You may descend from here or continue up Solar Slab.

Protection

Standard Red Rock Rack to 3" with a few extra Stoppers.

Photos

Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
This is a neat little route which makes a nice finish to either JV or Beulah's. The fun corner on P1 is on great rock and the chocolate varnished plates at the start of P2 are reminiscent of Armatron. The best part is that you'll almost always have the route to yourself. Nov 12, 2010
G. Vesp
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
G. Vesp   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
Did these two pitches after doing Johnny Vegas and looking for a little more climbing with several groups on Solar Slab. I thought the first pitch was fantastic at the grade. Being a 5.7 leader, it looked somewhat intimidating from the ground, but once on it, everything is there and I thought it took excellent gear. Used four stoppers as a belay in the upper varnish plates and felt like it was completely bomber. The second pitch had some brittle rock and I actually pulled a large handhold off. The second pitch is also straight forward, just be careful what you are pulling on!! Nov 19, 2013
Ben Deering  
 
Great option to get around a slow group starting Solar Slab. If you traverse right at the top, you will be at the top of the second pitch on Solar Slab. Mar 25, 2015
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.6
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.6
Very fun climb for the grade. An excellent alternative start to the first two pitches of Solar Slab. 5.5 climbing with a few 5.6 moves on pitch 1. The route has cleaned up nicely over the years; the varnish is amazing and the rock quality is solid. After exiting the stemming crack on pitch 1 continue up and slightly left on exposed face climbing for about 20 feet to a nice belay stance at the next band of cobbled varnish. This section is thin and exposed and protects with very small cams slotted in horizontal cracks. The belay stance can be anchored with several nuts and small cams. Pitch 2 wanders up and slightly left - there is no definitive line - to a good belay ledge. Mar 2, 2019