Avg: 3.4 from 872 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mark Limage, Chris Burton 2001|
|Page Views:||74,473 total · 502/month|
|Shared By:||Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Nov 18, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionA beautiful climb with a a variety of moves. This route is nice to do in the cooler months, as it's in the sun all day. Approach as to "The Brass Wall." This route is on "Brass Wall Left." The first pitch is also the start of a climb called "The Big Horn." Starts on a ledge with a single scrub oak.
Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack which shoots up to the big ledge. Continue up the well-protected varnished crack/face with lots of features for hands and feet. This pitch loves nuts! Climb straight up to the big ledge with a scrub oak. Bolted anchors. 5.6.
Pitch 2: Stay right of the chimney (the chimney to the left of the anchors is the start of pitch 2 of The Big Horn.) Start on the face above the anchors. Climb up to a left-facing corner. There are a couple of little offwidth moves in this section. Stay right at the top of the chimney, stepping out of the alcove, then move left into the crack, climbing up to a ledge with loose rock and a bolted anchor. 5.7.
Pitch 3: Climb up about 10 feet and look to your left, for a left-leaning, right-facing corner/ramp. Follow the fun, narrow ramp, continuing to traverse left, to a protection bolt. The pro a little tricky before the bolt: nuts in not too obvious seams. Move a little left of the bolt, then go straight up to the thin right-facing corner and up right to a ledge with bolted anchors. 5.7+.
Pitch 4: Climb up and traverse right about 20-30 feet heading for black varnished face holds. Climb up the black varnished face, following the path of least resistance, to a belay at a small stance. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch. 5.6.
Note: Don't go straight up from the belay; the climbing peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock.
Pitch 5: From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and up the nice crack that is above the roof and out of sight. This pitch ends with a beautiful finger crack to a triangular stepping stool to reach the anchors. The last moves to the belay are the crux. Fight for this pitch! 5.7+.
Note: On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From the belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left. This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland.
Pitch 6: 5.7R, that I haven't done, which consists of climbing on loose rock, to an anchor. If someone would like to post the beta for pitch 6, that'll be great. [admin's note: best to pass on pitch 6-- loose rock directly above the belayer, minimal pro, etc. Way out of character with the rest of the route.]
Rap the route with two ropes or with one 70m rope.