Avg: 3.4 from 37 votes
Routes in Three O'clock Rock
|20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Original: Don Brooks and Brent Hoffman (1970). Current version, incl. bonus pitch: David Whitelaw, Matt Perkins, and Chris Greyell (1999).|
|Page Views:||5,103 total, 96/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Mitchell on Jul 29, 2013|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionClassic climb that climbs the middle of the shield on Three O'clock Rock. All bolts are new and in great shape. The first six pitches go at 5.9+ and does not require doing the last pitch, which goes at 5.10b, as you rap the route you came up.
Pitch #1 - 5.6: Climb from the low point of the slab from where the Eight Mile Creek Trail meets the cliff and goes along its base. There is a bolt about 20 feet above the right-facing dihedral. Then climb to the anchors. 170 feet.
Pitch #2 - 5.8: Follow safe but spread-out bolts pretty much straight up to a set of anchors. 160 feet.
Pitch #3 - 5.9+: This is a very heavily bolted pitch that climbs a more technical friction slab. The most sustained pitch on the climb as it does not let up. 160 feet.
Pitch #4 - 5.8: Very fun pitch! Crux is the first two bolts directly off the belay then the climbing gets very easy climbing fun knobby rock. There is a fixed pin on this section if you can find it. The line the trends slightly left of a bush past two more bolts to anchors. 150 feet.
Pitch #5 - 5.8: This pitch climbs up and to the right following well bolted terrain to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch #6 - 5.9+: This climb goes slightly left up though a slab squeezed between the bushes. This pitch has a couple hard balancy moves but is well bolted.
Pitch #7 - 5.10b: Follow several bolts up over some cool overlaps. Follow the small dihedral up to some very thin slab (crux) past two bolts. 20 more feet will bring you to the anchors. 160 feet.