Avg: 3.4 from 37 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Original: Don Brooks and Brent Hoffman (1970). Current version, incl. bonus pitch: David Whitelaw, Matt Perkins, and Chris Greyell (1999).|
|Page Views:||5,178 total · 93/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Mitchell on Jul 29, 2013|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
DescriptionClassic climb that climbs the middle of the shield on Three O'clock Rock. All bolts are new and in great shape. The first six pitches go at 5.9+ and does not require doing the last pitch, which goes at 5.10b, as you rap the route you came up.
Pitch #1 - 5.6: Climb from the low point of the slab from where the Eight Mile Creek Trail meets the cliff and goes along its base. There is a bolt about 20 feet above the right-facing dihedral. Then climb to the anchors. 170 feet.
Pitch #2 - 5.8: Follow safe but spread-out bolts pretty much straight up to a set of anchors. 160 feet.
Pitch #3 - 5.9+: This is a very heavily bolted pitch that climbs a more technical friction slab. The most sustained pitch on the climb as it does not let up. 160 feet.
Pitch #4 - 5.8: Very fun pitch! Crux is the first two bolts directly off the belay then the climbing gets very easy climbing fun knobby rock. There is a fixed pin on this section if you can find it. The line the trends slightly left of a bush past two more bolts to anchors. 150 feet.
Pitch #5 - 5.8: This pitch climbs up and to the right following well bolted terrain to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch #6 - 5.9+: This climb goes slightly left up though a slab squeezed between the bushes. This pitch has a couple hard balancy moves but is well bolted.
Pitch #7 - 5.10b: Follow several bolts up over some cool overlaps. Follow the small dihedral up to some very thin slab (crux) past two bolts. 20 more feet will bring you to the anchors. 160 feet.