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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Original: Don Brooks and Brent Hoffman (1970). Current version, incl. bonus pitch: David Whitelaw, Matt Perkins, and Chris Greyell (1999).
Page Views: 5,103 total, 96/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Jul 29, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Classic climb that climbs the middle of the shield on Three O'clock Rock. All bolts are new and in great shape. The first six pitches go at 5.9+ and does not require doing the last pitch, which goes at 5.10b, as you rap the route you came up.

Pitch #1 - 5.6: Climb from the low point of the slab from where the Eight Mile Creek Trail meets the cliff and goes along its base. There is a bolt about 20 feet above the right-facing dihedral. Then climb to the anchors. 170 feet.

Pitch #2 - 5.8: Follow safe but spread-out bolts pretty much straight up to a set of anchors. 160 feet.

Pitch #3 - 5.9+: This is a very heavily bolted pitch that climbs a more technical friction slab. The most sustained pitch on the climb as it does not let up. 160 feet.

Pitch #4 - 5.8: Very fun pitch! Crux is the first two bolts directly off the belay then the climbing gets very easy climbing fun knobby rock. There is a fixed pin on this section if you can find it. The line the trends slightly left of a bush past two more bolts to anchors. 150 feet.

Pitch #5 - 5.8: This pitch climbs up and to the right following well bolted terrain to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch #6 - 5.9+: This climb goes slightly left up though a slab squeezed between the bushes. This pitch has a couple hard balancy moves but is well bolted.

Pitch #7 - 5.10b: Follow several bolts up over some cool overlaps. Follow the small dihedral up to some very thin slab (crux) past two bolts. 20 more feet will bring you to the anchors. 160 feet.

Location

From interstate 5 take exit #208 and go east on highway 530 to the town of Darrington. From the center of town take a right at the shell station onto Mountain Loop Highway. Drive for 2.9 miles until you see a dirt road (FS road #2060) on the right just before the clear creek campground. Take this dirt road for 6.1 miles staying right at the split until you reach the Eightmile Creek TH. Park on the left and take the trail for which will bring you out right at the base of Silent Running. Hike takes about 30 min at a moderate pace and is a very well built trail.

Protection

All moves that are 5.7 or harder are bolt protected. So if you are alright running out easy 5th class terrain you can leave the cams at home. The worst run out is on the very easy first pitch which goes at 5.6. The hardest move being directly next to the bolt.
oretro
 
oretro  
 
As of May 7th, the base of the route is covered with snow. The route was mostly dry, though some cracks that might have been useful were covered with wetness and/or vegetation. May 14, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
Sorry to hear about your partners fall Kameron, I forgot to grab your bail biner after my own ride yesterday. Booty alert, there's a red biner before the dihedral and a green camp nano on the last bolt.

Last pitch was damp from fog in the morning, I fell before you get some hands above the last bolt. I had placed a pretty marginal tiny silver wallnut in that same right facing dihedral that Kameron's partner ripped a .2 from and it ripped from the side load of the rope going taught. I stopped all the way down below that dihedral, pretty good fall dropping off the big overlap up higher.

I went for it again despite a slightly bruised heel, smears were just sliding away, I gave up and did some creative lowering.

A rack for the last pitch is nice, bring a #2 for the overlaps. Had a good purple totem (BD .5 size, c4 might be too wide) in that right facing dihedral midway up.

Sep 12, 2016
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Pitches 2,3, and 7 are awesome. The whole route is, for a slab climb, very comfortably protected. Appreciated having small cams to #2, especially on p7. P7 is not 10b. Maybe 10a, but felt more 9/9+ to me. Look for right facing dihedral with a single bolt above and that is your line. Hanger and bolt loose on p1 anchors. Awesome line, beautiful setting! May 10, 2016
No longer a trad climb... Very well bolted (even last pitch). We placed one psychological cam. May 1, 2016
Matt Perkins
Seattle, Washington
Matt Perkins   Seattle, Washington
The last pitch is fun. Oct 18, 2015
oretro
 
oretro  
 
The final pitch definitely sees less use than rest of route. Unlike the rest of the pitches, there is a good amount of lichen on the rock, making the footholds less secure. There's also moss in the cracks near the top, which I tried to clean out with my hands (bring a nut tool). I placed a #1 and #2 in a mossy crack near the top and wished I'd had some nuts or smaller cams (<0.5) for some smaller cracks that would have taken pro. Aug 5, 2015
Brett Thompson
Washington State
  5.10b
Brett Thompson   Washington State
  5.10b
FA of original Silent Running: Don Brooks and Brent Hoffman 1970
FA of current version including bonus pitch: David Whitelaw, Matt Perkins, and Chris Greyell 1999 Jan 1, 2014