Poppy's Peril

Gear: 13-14 quickdraws, 1x 70m rope recommended, though it can be rappelled with 1x 60m rope (but can be tight, tie knots as is standard practice!)

Poppy's Peril is a 5-pitch introductory multi-pitch sport climb up the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie Valley. It was developed as an introductory outdoor slab climb bolted generously for the 5.7 outdoor leader. Each pitch is equipped with modern stainless-steel expansion bolts & has been bolted for added comfort for those of various heights (short & tall). Belays are equipped with two stainless steel expansion bolts w/ hangers and all stop on large ledges with easy bailout options. The intention to minimize traffic jams is to ascend the route via the pitches described & descend the route via the established rappel route to climber's right of the route. One can easily bail out to the rappel anchors atop each pitch, but most easily atop P3.

The route's name is derived from a development day this summer when one of the friends of the developers' dogs solo-ed up to the anchor of P2 and hence this friend had to rescue his dog & ensure she didn't slide down the slab into Lipsy Lake....a grim prospect indeed!

Seasonal Conditions Considerations: This route can be fun & is in condition all months of the year, however different variations exist based on seasonality. The largest variable to consider with regards to seasonality is the flow rate of Otter Falls & how much prolonged rain will affect seepage on the lower slabs. In early season (March-July), we reccomend following beta for these variations. In late season or during periods of lower water levels/seepage, the standard beta can be used. Also of note, because of its direct southern exposure, the route typically dries after 3-4 hours of direct sunlight after rain, but can be vulnerable to seepage after sustained rainfall. The developer's recommendation would be to wait 4-5 days after sustained rainfall to allow seepage to be less of a concern.

Pitch-by-pitch breakdown & descent information:

Approach Pitch: From the edge of the slab & Lipsy Lake, climb up the slab up & left to the start of the route at the base of a low angle left-facing corner. ***NOTE: In early season (March-July) or after periods of prolonged rain, there is a prominent seepage water streak down the approach slabs. Crossing this streak can be insecure when wet. A few bolts have been added to be able to better protect oneself crossing this streak, but the crossover should occur via a natural weakness where there are small ledge features available for your feet (marked as a red line in one of the attached beta photos).

P1 5.2 Climb a low angle left facing corner protected by bolts up to a small bulge. Surmount the bulge by looking for low-angle dishes within the bulge. Step up & left to the belay. ***NOTE: In early season, the water level of the waterfall is often very high, covering the P2 anchor in water. An early season (March-July) variation goes to the right after the corner feature up to join the rappel route to the right. 8 bolts. 130'

P2: 5.6 From the anchor step right (late season) or left (early season) and follow the prominent wide left-facing corner. Bolts will be found on the lip & below the lip of the corner. 9 bolts. 170'

P3: 5.8 Step up and left from the anchor & climb a low-angle slab to the base of a crack & clean slab. Follow up the clean slab up to a lower-angle V-groove. As the groove increases in steepness, step left (crux) and surmount to a stance on the new slab. Climb directly upwards and follow bolts to an arete feature & eventually up to the next anchor at a stance below a steep block. 12 bolts, 195'

P4: 5.7+ Step left from the anchor & climb a leftward-leaning ramp with bolts & handholds on the slab. As the ramp feature ends, move directly up and right into a new corner & slab feature. Clip a bolt to the left high & find a prominent foothold for both feet, and using friction slab moves or an optional rope pendulum, climb up to a large ledge to the left (crux). Follow bolts up a left-facing corner above the ledge to another belay. 10 bolts, 150'

P5: 5.6 Step up & left and follow a friction slab with face holds up to a stance to the right. Using a crack for your foot down left and/or the slab, climb the slab up until the wall steepens. As the wall steepens, climb up & right on solid face holds to a two-bolt anchor above the rap route. 8 bolts, 80'

Descent:

Route can be rappelled with a single 60m or 70m rope.

-From the two-bolt anchor of P5, step down and right 5' to another two-bolt anchor w/ a rap ring. Rappel from here down and right to another two-bolt anchor in a left facing corner at a stance below a bulge, 90-95'.

-For the second rappel, follow down the left facing corner until there is a break out climber's right below the steep block mentioned in the beta for P3. Find a two-bolt anchor with chains established high on the wall on the steep block, 90-95'. **Note: The location of this anchor is immediately 5-10' climber's right of the P3 two-bolt anchor.***

-For the third rappel, descend immediately below the two-bolt anchor into a V-groove until one can step out of it out right after 40'. Rappel down the slab to climber's right of the ascent route until you encounter the next two-bolt anchor below another bulge to a stance, 95'.

-For the forth rappel, rappel straight down the slab angling slightly climber's right to another two-bolt anchor on the slab, 95'. **Note: This anchor is located 20' down & climber's right of the P2 two-bolt anchor.***

-For the fifth rappel, continue rappelling down the slab until the next two-bolt anchor is found at a small stance where the slab steepens, 95'.

-For the sixth & final rappel, descend directly straight down the slab to where the angle of the slab decreases. A final two-bolt anchor is found on the slab at the bottom of this if one would like security while re-configuring one's rope. 95'.

From the anchor on the final rappel, walk 100' on low angle friction slab to the beach on Lipsy Lake. ***NOTE: In early season when the lower slabs are wet, one can rappel off this anchor to climber's right over the prominent seepage channels back to dry rock, then walk down the remaining dry rock to Lipsy Lake

Once on the beach on the southeastern end of Lipsy Lake, head north up the low-angle friction slab. Angle up and left 100' to the base of a shallow left-facing corner to a ledge w/ a two-bolt anchor that denotes the start of the route.

Fully bolt protected; bring 13-14 quickdraws & 1x 70m rope (recommended) or a 1x 60m rope (can be done but is a rope stretcher on the rappels).