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Elevation: 1,169 ft
GPS: 47.53717, -121.58422
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,347 total · 862/month
Shared By: Daniel Chode Rider on Apr 26, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

Description Suggest change

The Middle Fork Snoqualmie River valley, while only a few minutes north of I-90, is quite separated from its southerly sister in terms of climbing. The predominate rock type is solid gray granite, often formed into slabby buttresses scattered on the peaks and throughout the valley. Much of the area lies within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, with the motorized drill band within deterring much climbing development. Some crags and the high peaks have been touched by climbers. The dominant mass of Mount Garfield, lying between the Taylor and thr Middle Fork, has been climbed for decades and hosts a series of committing alpine routes plus the Leland Windham testpiece Infinite Bliss. Russian Buttes, Quartz Mountain, Revelation Peak and others rise to moderate altitudes, but have impressive relief due to the low setting. Some lowland crags have been bolted as well, including the slabs of Fee Demo wall just off the Middle Fork trail. In theory, boulders have been found in the forest and lie awaiting second ascents.

There is boundless granite potential in the Middle Fork, on the peaks and in the woods. Currently, it awaits those with patience to hand drill bolts. Nonetheless, it is there.

Getting There Suggest change

Take Exit 34 off I-90, and drive the Middle Fork River road to various trailheads.

89 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Exit 34; Middle Fork & Taylor River Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Exit 34; Middle Fork & Taylor River

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 4
Watersports
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 7
Meat Eating Vegetarian
Boulder
V7 7A+
 4
Golden Power Shower
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Deep Roots
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Stump Farmer
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Cretaceous Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Finished Business
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 62
Infinite Bliss
Trad 23 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Thunder Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Stegosaurus Butte-y
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Wait Time
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
Saruman's Army
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Authentic Experience
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Second Breakfast
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Dying on the Vine
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Watersports *Middle Fork Bo… > Booka Boulders > Shower Power Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Meat Eating Vegetarian *Middle Fork Bo… > Booka Boulders > Man About Town Boulder
 7
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Golden Power Shower *Middle Fork Bo… > Booka Boulders > Shower Power Boulder
 4
V7 7A+ Boulder
Deep Roots Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stump Farmer Quartz Camp > (a) W Quartz Camp
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cretaceous Crack Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Finished Business Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Bad & the Ugly
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Infinite Bliss Mt Garfield
 62
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 23 pitches
Thunder Crack Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stegosaurus Butte-y Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Wait Time Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Saruman's Army Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Authentic Experience Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Second Breakfast Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dying on the Vine Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Exit 34; Middle Fork & Taylor River »

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