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Elevation: 1,169 ft 356 m
GPS: 47.53717, -121.58422
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Daniel Chode Rider on Apr 26, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

Description Suggest change

The Middle Fork Snoqualmie River valley, while only a few minutes north of I-90, is quite separated from its southerly sister in terms of climbing. The predominate rock type is solid gray granite, often formed into slabby buttresses scattered on the peaks and throughout the valley. Much of the area lies within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, with the motorized drill band within deterring much climbing development. Some crags and the high peaks have been touched by climbers. The dominant mass of Mount Garfield, lying between the Taylor and thr Middle Fork, has been climbed for decades and hosts a series of committing alpine routes plus the Leland Windham testpiece Infinite Bliss. Russian Buttes, Quartz Mountain, Revelation Peak and others rise to moderate altitudes, but have impressive relief due to the low setting. Some lowland crags have been bolted as well, including the slabs of Fee Demo wall just off the Middle Fork trail. In theory, boulders have been found in the forest and lie awaiting second ascents.

There is boundless granite potential in the Middle Fork, on the peaks and in the woods. Currently, it awaits those with patience to hand drill bolts. Nonetheless, it is there.

Getting There Suggest change

Take Exit 34 off I-90, and drive the Middle Fork River road to various trailheads.

223 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Exit 34; Middle Fork & Taylor River Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Exit 34; Middle Fork & Taylor River

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 27
Meat Eating Vegetarian
Boulder
V7 7A+
 17
Golden Power Shower
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Necessary But Not Sufficient
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 83
Deep Roots
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Cretaceous Crack
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
Finished Business
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Thunder Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
The Man From Nantucket
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 44
Dungeons of Orthanc
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Wait Time
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 47
Authentic Experience
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Isengard Unleashed
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 35
Dying on the Vine
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Shih Tzu Jiu-Jitsu 3: Return of…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 24
Corruption
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Meat Eating Vegetarian *Middle Fork Bo… > Booka Boulders > Man About Town Boulder
 27
V6 7A Boulder
Golden Power Shower *Middle Fork Bo… > Booka Boulders > Power Shower Boulder
 17
V7 7A+ Boulder
Necessary But Not Sufficient Bessemer Mountain > S Bessemer Creek > Upper Pratt
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Deep Roots Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 83
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Cretaceous Crack Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finished Business Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Bad & the Ugly
 50
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Thunder Crack Stegosaurus Butte > Rump > Goods
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Man From Nantucket Bessemer Mountain > S Bessemer Creek > Upper Pratt
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Dungeons of Orthanc Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 44
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wait Time Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Authentic Experience Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 47
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Isengard Unleashed Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dying on the Vine Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 35
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shih Tzu Jiu-Jitsu 3: Retur… Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Corruption Bessemer Mountain > N Bessemer Creek > Helm's Deep
 24
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Exit 34; Middle Fork & Taylor River »

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