Type: Trad
FA: David Allwine, 2016
Page Views: 4,352 total · 139/month
Shared By: David Allwine on May 17, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


94 Opinions

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Description

This formerly vegetated corner between Battered Sandwich and Instanbul is now clear of brush and ready to climb. Start in the corner. Lieback, stem, and chimney your way up the widening crack. There is an anchor at the platform where the crack ends (thank you to whoever installed this!). From the top of the crack, you can also continue by making a few moves right to the base of the flare of Battered Sandwich (Turkey Sandwich??). This adds some great climbing, a little spice, and a grade or two.

Location

Between Istanbul and Battered Sandwich

Protection

Singles to a BD #5. Consider doubling up in the mid sizes if continuing through the flare of Battered Sandwich.
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Darryl and I had occasionally thought about cleaning this line, but it always looked too hard to clean. It is fantastic to hear that someone finally cleaned it.

Perhaps Index routes should have two ratings, a user rating for climbing difficulty, and a creator rating to give acknowledgement to the work of the FA party. This one would be u5.7, c5.14.

Any photos? May 17, 2016
David Allwine
  5.7
David Allwine  
  5.7
Thanks Jon, it was a bit more work than I had planned, but I think it will end up being a good one. Don't have a great picture, but it's probably good enough for now. May 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I predict that the route will become very popular, perhaps one of the most popular at the cliff.

Fantastic job David. Thanks. May 18, 2016
Stig .
Seattle
 
Stig .   Seattle
 
It's good that a new anchor was added. Having to go right into battered sandwich was not that fun and made getting down a bit frustrating and a bit of a cluster with folks on senior citizens. May 19, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
I was also planning to clean this. Not complaining, glad you got to it, looked like so much work. I left my little pick axe up there near Seniors, if you picked it up, or if anyone else does please bring it back. Jun 15, 2016
Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Tess Wendel   Seattle, WA
  5.8
Super fun route, felt harder to me than senior citzens but not much harder. Super great for those who aren't quite ready for the full Index 5.9 or find Aires 5.8 to be pretty sandbagged but still want to get practice leading on some beautiful cracks. Jul 24, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.7
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.7
This a great easier route, it's steeper than seniors, but with lots of no hands stances. Many options for gear from micro through a #5. This and seniors are good options for newer leaders. Aug 15, 2016
Devin Bishop
  5.7
Devin Bishop  
  5.7
My only complaint about this (and most of the routes) in this area of Private Idaho are that, even with the separate anchors (much appreciated!), the fall/rappel lines are such that multiple parties top-roping or rappelling still results in major cluster f*cks with each other. Shame for such a popular crag with several moderate leads. That and the erosion factor at the base of these climbs is a major drawback for such a high use area. Sep 16, 2017