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Routes in Private Idaho

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battered Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Curious Poses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eraserhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Can See Your House From Here S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I am in top a shader T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Istanbul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S & S T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizens in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spineless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
prairie fire that wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: David Allwine, 2016
Page Views: 2,910 total, 153/month
Shared By: David Allwine on May 17, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This formerly vegetated corner between Battered Sandwich and Instanbul is now clear of brush and ready to climb. Start in the corner. Lieback, stem, and chimney your way up the widening crack. There is an anchor at the platform where the crack ends (thank you to whoever installed this!). From the top of the crack, you can also continue by making a few moves right to the base of the flare of Battered Sandwich (Turkey Sandwich??). This adds some great climbing, a little spice, and a grade or two.

Location

Between Istanbul and Battered Sandwich

Protection

Singles to a BD #5. Consider doubling up in the mid sizes if continuing through the flare of Battered Sandwich.

Photos

Devin Bishop
  5.7
Devin Bishop  
  5.7
My only complaint about this (and most of the routes) in this area of Private Idaho are that, even with the separate anchors (much appreciated!), the fall/rappel lines are such that multiple parties top-roping or rappelling still results in major clusters*cks with each other. Shame for such a popular crag with several moderate leads. That and the erosion factor at the base of these climbs is a major drawback for such a high use area. Sep 16, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.7
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.7
This a great easier route, it's steeper than seniors, but with lots of no hands stances. Many options for gear from micro through a #5. This and seniors are good options for newer leaders. Aug 15, 2016
Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Tess Wendel   Seattle, WA
  5.8
Super fun route, felt harder to me than senior citzens but not much harder. Super great for those who aren't quite ready for the full Index 5.9 or find Aires 5.8 to be pretty sandbagged but still want to get practice leading on some beautiful cracks. Jul 24, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
I was also planning to clean this. Not complaining, glad you got to it, looked like so much work. I left my little pick axe up there near Seniors, if you picked it up, or if anyone else does please bring it back. Jun 15, 2016
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
 
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
 
It's good that a new anchor was added. Having to go right into battered sandwich was not that fun and made getting down a bit frustrating and a bit of a cluster with folks on senior citizens. May 19, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
I predict that the route will become very popular, perhaps one of the most popular at the cliff.

Fantastic job David. Thanks. May 18, 2016
Thanks Jon, it was a bit more work than I had planned, but I think it will end up being a good one. Don't have a great picture, but it's probably good enough for now. May 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Darryl and I had occasionally thought about cleaning this line, but it always looked too hard to clean. It is fantastic to hear that someone finally cleaned it.

Perhaps Index routes should have two ratings, a user rating for climbing difficulty, and a creator rating to give acknowledgement to the work of the FA party. This one would be u5.7, c5.14.

Any photos? May 17, 2016