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Routes in Brass Wall

Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bird Cage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Laughing Matter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nowhere Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectrum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Brass Wall is a shorter wall with a few longer climbs. It is clearly not the Red Rocks classic canyon wall with its long multi-pitch routes and certainly not the classic Red Rocks sport crag with the wild red overhangs. In fact, it's not the classic Red Rocks anything, but it is a nice crag with nice climbs and worth a visit for sure.

The Brass Wall gets good daytime sun in the winter, the dark hard patina over the smooth rock gives it a bright glare in the strong light, and also forms the crags character, smooth, solid, and pleasant overall. A few dirtier lines and broken juggy climbs are also to be found however. The routes there are mostly easy to moderate and all of them are trad, with fixed rap stations. A few hard lines are present as well.

The best lines I did on this wall were Heavy Spider Karma (5.6), Topless Twins (5.9) and Mushroom People (5.10+).

Once here, the nearby Straight Shooter Wall offers a few more route opportunities with mostly 5.11 grades, and a few sport routes.

Getting There

Park as for Pine Creek Canyon and approach initially as for the Mescalito's 'dark side.' After spotting the Beer And Ice Gully, the huge gully above a dirty and broken red cliff band, head on a maze of ambiguous trails to reach the edge of the soft red cliff band. This dirt-piled mess can be soloed over, but that is dicey.

To the left of this gully is the Brass Wall, and to the right is Straight-Shooter Wall. Instead of battling through the red band, skirt its edge to either end (preferably right) and them make your way left to the Brass Wall. The climbs The Bus Stops Here, Mushroom People and Topless Twins should be visible as you approach.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Brass Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 83
Heavy Spider Karma
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 64
Rawlpindi
Trad 5 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 966
Birdland
Trad 6 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 131
Varnishing Point
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
The Big Horn
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 227
Topless Twins
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 62
Bush Pilots
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
No Laughing Matter
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 3
Simpatico
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Brass Balls
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 135
Mushroom People
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Spectrum
Trad 7 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 11
Go Greyhound
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 15
Fungus folks
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 12
Sky Dive
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heavy Spider Karma
 83
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Rawlpindi
 64
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Birdland
 966
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Varnishing Point
 131
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Big Horn
 61
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Topless Twins
 227
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bush Pilots
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
No Laughing Matter
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Simpatico
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Brass Balls
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Mushroom People
 135
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Spectrum
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
Go Greyhound
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Fungus folks
 15
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Sky Dive
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Brass Wall »

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Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
There is a nice trail that skirts the right side of the red cliff band. Follow the trail to the top of the red cliff band, then head west on flat terrain across the top of the red cliff band until you are directly below Brass Wall. Then, follow a good trail up the bushy hill. Nov 8, 2004

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