Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade IV
FA: Fred Becky and Tom Stewart.
Page Views: 4,751 total · 102/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on Feb 21, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A beautiful buttress guarded by a small glacier. The route has large sections of 4th class terrain and a few sections of low 5th. Rock quality is good, but the views and remoteness are the real allure to Mt. Goode.

Protection

small alpine rack, rope.

Photos

Dan Birman
Berlin, DE
Dan Birman   Berlin, DE
Plenty of info on the route from other sources but I wanted to emphasize that the Storm king - Goode col descent is technical and potentially dangerous, especially after mid-July when the glacier breaks up. Unless you know what you're doing and have a good reason to go down that way take the trail out. Aug 2, 2017
Climbed August 6, 2018. The glacier was the crux of the route for us. Seems these recent hot summers are taking a toll on the Goode Glacier. We tried to move quickly and were all happy to be off the thing. We crossed the moat at 6800' and climbed one chossy 5th class pitch to get on the buttress. Soloed the first 1000' or so of 4th class then did a mixture of pitched climbing and simuling from there to the summit. Climbed the whole route in mountaineering boots with overnight packs. No need to bring rock shoes. There was a snow patch around the corner from the large bivy ledge about 3/4 of the way up the route that provided water. The summit bivy is unbeatable.

Descent: Three traversing raps from the summit (well-established rap stations) down to the ledge leading to Black Tooth Notch. Simuled the ledge then made three more raps down into the SW couloir. 60m rope was just barely long enough for one of the raps. Rest of the descent was a loose 3rd class gully. The old Goode climbers trail burned a few years ago but travel is easy enough if you just try to stay on the ridge crest. Nov 20, 2018