Type: Trad, Alpine, 2800 ft (848 m), Grade IV
FA: Fred Beckey and Tom Stewart, August 6, 1966. FWA Bill Pilling and Steve Mascioli, March 3-5 1984
Page Views: 12,987 total · 118/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on Feb 21, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


42 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A beautiful buttress guarded by a small glacier. The route has large sections of 4th class terrain and a few sections of low 5th. Rock quality is good, but the views and remoteness are the real allure to Mt. Goode.

Route: Cross the Goode Glacier, which may be heavily crevassed in late season. Cross the moat or bergschrund wherever it happens to be and climb easy 5th to get on the buttress. The first 5ish pitches up the buttress are 4th class, either solo or simulclimb. The rest are low 5th to 5.5 (generally trending easier), belay or simulclimb. Many accounts relate the nonexistent need for anything footwear but boots.

Descent: Three traversing raps from the summit (well-established rap stations) down to the ledge leading to Black Tooth Notch. Simul the ledge then made three more raps down into the SW couloir. A 60m rope is just barely long enough for one of the raps. Rest of the descent was a loose 3rd class gully. The old Goode climbers trail burned a few years ago but travel is easy enough if you just try to stay on the ridge crest.

Permit:

A bivy permit should be obtained within 24 hrs of the climb for Goode backcountry zone of North Cascades National Park. You can pick up the permit at Marblemount wilderness information center, Stehekin, or Methow Valley Ranger Station (Winthrop). Alternatively, there is an after-hour number posted outside of these offices that you can contact and get a permit number.

Protection Suggest change

small alpine rack, rope.

Photos

loading