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Routes in Midland

Lay of the Land S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nameless Tower, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet and Sticky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violent Phlegms S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Tower
Page Views: 656 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ian Z on Aug 21, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The first bolt is a little high, perhaps 15 or 20 feet from the ground above some 5.9 climbing. Continue to a mid 5.10 crux by the second bolt. Place some gear and then continue upwards through somewhat easier climbing and then pull a nicely bolted roof (probably the crux of the route). The harder sections are all bolted. Gear placements are decent though perhaps a little dirty. Shares anchors with "Sweet and Sticky".

Location

Midlands at Exit 32. The route is to the right of "Lay of the Land" and to the left of the bolted arete route "Sweet and Sticky". The start is on the ground to the left of the ledge for "Sweet and Sticky".

Protection

Mixed. 6 bolts and "officially" gear to one inch, though smaller cams will be useful.

Photos

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Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10d
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10d
I didn't think anything felt harder than other 10+ routes at the exits. If you try to get up and chicken clip above the roof early you'll make it harder though.

While I enjoy climbing trad, I climb 32 when I don't want to lug a rack around. This may stay cleaner being fully bolts. Cleaner in this case meant we were still cleaning cobwebs from the crack. Aug 14, 2017
tomtom
 
tomtom  
 
Crack has been needlessly retro-bolted. No gear required. May 28, 2017