Elevation: 3,987 ft
GPS: 48.161, -121.638 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 298,169 total · 1,723/month
Shared By: Matt Perkins on Aug 11, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

The climbing area traditionally called "Darrington" is a collection of granite domes in the Clear Creek and Squire Creek drainages south of the town of Darrington. Other climbing opportunities in the area include the "D-Ton Boulders," in the White Chuck River drainage about twelve miles southeast of town, and a crag and some boulders on the south slope of Spring Mountain, about eighteen miles southeast of town. Whitehorse Mountain, immediately southwest of town, makes an excellent ski outing in early season during years of high snow cover. The mountains in the area near Darrington include Glacier Peak, Sloan Peak, Whitechuck, and Three Fingers. There is plenty to do around here.

The mountain valleys around Darrington have a remote feel and, except along highway 530, cell phones generally do not work. The scenery is fantastic, and the climbing is varied. The area has seen steady climbing activity for nearly fifty years but rarely do any of these destinations become crowded. The granite in Clear Creek and Squire Creek features multiple pitch routes on generally clean granite with many leading to a summit. Bolt protection is common but traditional gear is generally required. The bouldering at D-Ton offers a variety of problems, mostly in shade, with a very short approach. Spring Mountain has climbs from one to seven pitches on heavily featured rock, with boulders in deep woods below the cliff. Just a few of the routes and boulders in the area are featured here.

The town of Darrington is changing. Formerly centered around mining and logging, the town now caters more toward tourism and a recreation economy and, in recent years, locals have opened a coffee shop, a brewery, a pizza place, etc. Snohomish County, the Forest Service, and the town have worked with the Washington Climbers Coalition and other recreation and access oriented groups to preserve access and promote recreational use in the area for hikers, climbers, boaters, and horse people.

On the west slope of Cascades, Darrington receives two or three times the annual rainfall of Seattle. The area is heavily vegetated and trees grow even on top of boulders or granite domes. Many climbs may remain wet for a day or two after a prolonged wet period.

Information on D-Ton Boulders and Spring Mountain is available here on Mountain Project. Information about the climbing in Clear Creek (Green Giant Buttress, Three O'Clock Rock, Exfoliation Dome, and Squire Creek Wall) is here as well. A PDF guide is downloadable at www.mattsea.com/Darr.

Note: Bring two ropes, ideally 70m, as many of the pitches (single and multi) here require full length rappels. 

Getting There

Darrington is on highway 530, about 30 miles east of I-5 at the Arlington, Washington exit. All of the climbs discussed here are approached on Forest Service roads, which are generally well maintained but may sometimes be unsuitable for low clearance cars or even blocked altogether by fallen trees or landslides.

The Squire Creek Road (Forest Service 2040) heads out of the old downtown at the west end of the old main street. The Clear Creek Road (Forest Service 2060) departs the Mountain Loop Highway just under three miles from the main intersection with a gas station and mini mart in the center of town. The White Chuck Road (Forest Service 23) departs the Mountain Loop Highway about nine miles from town, just after the turn off at the new White Chuck bridge. Spring Mountain is on the North Fork road, Forest Service 49, which departs the Mountain Loop Highway just before the bridge over the North Fork of the Sauk River.

129 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Darrington

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Under the Bored Walk
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 44
The Big Tree
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Blueberry Buttress
Trad 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
Dreamer
Trad 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Till Broad Daylight
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
The Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial R…
Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 86
Silent Running
Trad 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Total Soul
Trad 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Flight of the Falcon
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Dark Rhythm
Trad 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 35
Excalibur
Trad 10 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
 14
Slab Daddy
Trad, Aid 22 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Roan Wall - Center Stage
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Ancient Melodies
Trad 10 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Jacobs Ladder, 5.10b A-1 or 5.11b
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Under the Bored Walk Three O'clock Rock
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Big Tree Three O'clock Rock
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Blueberry Buttress Exfoliation Dome > Blueberry Hill & Prox…
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
Dreamer Green Giant Buttress
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 10 pitches
Till Broad Daylight Three O'clock Rock
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
The Quin Konehead Pre-Memor… Three O'clock Rock
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Silent Running Three O'clock Rock
 86
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Total Soul Three O'clock Rock
 66
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Flight of the Falcon Squire Creek Walls > Waterfall Basin
 11
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Dark Rhythm Exfoliation Dome > Blueberry Hill & Prox…
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Excalibur Squire Creek Walls > Illusion Wall
 35
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 10 pitches
Slab Daddy Squire Creek Walls > Northern Section
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 Trad, Aid 22 pitches
Roan Wall - Center Stage Squire Creek Walls > Waterfall Basin
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Ancient Melodies Exfoliation Dome > Blueberry Hill & Prox…
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 10 pitches
Jacobs Ladder, 5.10b A-1 or… Exfoliation Dome > Blueberry Hill & Prox…
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 8 pitches
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