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Routes in Waterfall Basin

Roan Wall - Center Stage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roan Wall - Stage Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roofer Madness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Waterfall Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 2,659 ft
GPS: 48.172, -121.673 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,573 total, 66/month
Shared By: Daniel Coltrane on Sep 23, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

At the end of Squire creek below the enormous east face of Three fingers lies Waterfall basin.

Getting There

From Darrington, follow the Squire Creek Road to a parking lot where the road is now blocked. Start hiking the road, reaching a landslide in about 5 minutes. Cross low (look for flagging) then climb back up to the road. Reach the original road end in about 30-40 minutes from the car.

Follow the old trail about 20-30 minutes until you reach a large dry streambed (about 50' wide and full of white boulders - if you were to pass this, the switchbacks on the Squire Creek trail begin shortly after). Hike down the creek bed about 200' trending left into open alders. A path exists here that may be a bit hard to pick up. At first it stays just uphill of a swampy area. Follow the path for about 30 minutes upvalley until it pops out at Squire Creek which must be forded. Follow gravel bank on the west side of the creek until just before it ends (~100' ) then find a path going back into the woods. Soon after you must cross a small channel of the creek then the trail fades out in open forest and eventually you’ll end up in the now dry creek bed of Squire Creek (the creek is underground).
Shortly after entering the creek bed you'll break out into the open (~2 hrs from car).

The Roan Wall is a big red slab located on the right side of the basin. Follow the creek bed until it feels like you've almost gone past the wall. At this point a thin boulder-filled watercourse coming directly down from the wall should be obvious. Unfortunately it ends in brush about 200' away from the drainage you're in. You might be able to find a faint path leading through some large boulders into slide alder and soon after the watercourse. Scramble up this watercourse until you reach slabs at it's end. There are two approach pitches to get to the base of the actual Roan Wall. The first is an obvious 80' bolted 5.8 slab. From it’s top scramble up the gully a bit and climb a low-5th class 150’ groove on the right side of a brushy wall.

An enormously overhung (with sport routes) boulder called "Martha's Place", sits near the base of the route, offering a fun place to camp.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roan Wall - Center Stage
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roan Wall - Center Stage 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
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