Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: David Tower, Chris Greyell 2005
Page Views: 6,217 total · 47/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 19, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Beginning at the toe of a small buttress below the obvious large orange/grey colored wall. The first two pitches are approach pitches, disconnected from the remainder of the climb. The route stays on very high-quality granite, with plentiful patina edges, some friction climb, and and cracks up high.

Give yourself 3-3.5hrs for the approach. Alternatively, a fantastic camp can be made at the enormous 'bivy boulder' near the base of the route.

P1) Beginning at the toe of a small buttress/prow, follow bolts for 30m. 5.8

P2) Dirty but easy climbing leads up toward the base of the real wall. 5.4

P3) Amazing and sustained climbing on edges. 5.10b

P4) Follow all bolted line up and generally rightward. 5.9

P5) All bolted. 5.9

P6) All bolted. 5.10c

P7) The devious crux slab. 5.11a

P8) Up cracks and occasional bolted moves. 5.10-

P9) Rad arching undercling right. 5.9

p10) Edges, mantles and cracks straight up to the top. 5.10-



From the town of Darrington follow the Squire Creek Road to a parking lot where the road is now blocked. Start hiking the road, reaching the landslide in about 5 minutes. Cross low (look for flagging) then climb back up to the road. Reach the original road end in about 30-40 minutes from the car.
Follow the old trail about 20-30 minutes until you reach a large dry streambed (it's obvious, 50' wide and full of white boulders). If you were to pass this, the switchbacks on the Squire Creek trail begin shortly after this creek. Hike down the creek bed about 200' trending left into open! alders. A path exists here that may be a bit hard to pick up. At first it stays just uphill of a swampy area. Follow the path for about 30 minutes upvalley until it pops out at Squire Creek which must be forded. Follow gravel bank on the west side of the creek until just before it ends (~100' ) then find a path going back into the woods. Soon after you must cross a small channel of the creek then the trail fades out in open forest and eventually you’ll end up in the now dry creek bed of Squire Creek (the creek is underground).
Shortly after entering the creek bed you'll break out into the open (~2hrs from car). The Roan Wall is a big red slab located on the right side of the basin. Follow the creek bed until it feels like you've almost gone past the wall. At this point a thin boulder filled watercourse coming directly down from the wall should be obvious. Unfortunately it ends in brush about 200' away from the drainage you're in. You might be able to find a faint path leading through some large boulders into slide alder and soon after the watercourse. Scramble up this watercourse until you reach slabs at it's end. There are two approach pitches to get to the base of the actual Roan Wall. The first is an obvious 80' bolted 5.8 slab. From it’s top scramble up the gully a bit and climb a low-5th class 150’ groove on the right side of a brushy wall.

An enormously overhung (with sport routes) boulder sits near the base of the route, offering a fun place to camp.


~14 quickdraws and a single set of nuts and cams to 2"

The first half of the route (except p2) is fully bolted. All belays have brand new double-ring SS anchors.