Avg: 3.6 from 29 votes
Routes in Three O'clock Rock
|20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Matt Perkins, David Whitelaw (1999)|
|Page Views:||5,747 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Perkins on Aug 12, 2007|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionTotal Soul is an eight pitch route on the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock. This is slab climbing, though with a remarkable variation to it as the climb follows a dike for two pitches, passes several interesting overlaps along the way, and has the rare distinction of being one of the routes that actually "tops out" on Three O'Clock Rock.
The difficult climbing is mostly bolt protected but the leader must carry and know how to use gear. Gear is particularly helpful for the long crack section on P4 (finger-tip-sized stoppers and up to a wide-hands cam size). It also may be helpful to place a piece or two on P2. See the attached topo for bolt counts per pitch.
LocationFrom the base of Silent Running, head left and uphill from the point where the hiking trail reaches the rock. A few hundred yards later, the base of the climb is marked by a bolt on the right wall, maybe fifty feet below where the bushes give way to a rock chimney/gully system that forms the deep cleft between the North Buttress and the South Buttress.
Chains are in place at all the belays so you can rappel the route. The top two pitches are more easily rappelled by an alternate route in the trees on the right (north), for a more vertically oriented rappel.
The first of these two raps is from a set of slings on a medium sized tree, thirty to fifty feet right of where the route tops out. The second, less than a half rope below, has a chain anchor that is often overlooked, so there are slings on a large tree nearby. When you reach the anchor at the top of P2, you can do one rap to the ground with two 60-m ropes if you head towards the gully.