Type: Trad, Aid, 2300 ft, 22 pitches
FA: David Whitelaw, Bill Enger, Dan Dingle
Page Views: 2,236 total · 82/month
Shared By: Michael Dom on Sep 20, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best climbs in the Northwest. For more info consult the Cascades Rock by Blake Herrington.

It also goes free at 5.11.

A final note, you will have to rappel off of the route so be wary of dropping your ropes in the enormous pools of water that form on the ledges.

Approach time is about 2-3 hours.

Protection

Gear to 4” with multiples .75”-2.5”, 12 draws, 2-60m ropes recommended

Photos

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10+ C0
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10+ C0
EDIT: Did this route a 2nd time. The first few pitches are often wet. You can bypass the wetness on the first pitch to the left after clipping the first bolt (~5.6) and then up and to the right of the 2nd pitch (look for a bolt in a corner system 5.7/5.8).

While rapping with 60m ropes we linked 18/19, 17/16, 14/13 (short easy downclimb, avoids anchor with missing hanger), 10/9, 5/4, 2/1. Many of these were rope stretchers.

Also for anyone planning to free the exit groove, you'll be climbing a ways above some pretty bad button heads. Sep 22, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Nate, I made the move. Sep 22, 2016
Hello !! Bill Enger worked w/Whitelaw on the first ascent. Dan Dingle only did one pitch out of the 22!! Bill also did the FA w/Whitelaw on OSO Rodeo.
I was one of several support team members on both climbs.
Great area and GREAT routes!!
John Medosch (jmclimber) Jan 27, 2017
Andrew Davidson
Everett, WA
Andrew Davidson   Everett, WA
Here is a link to a NWMJ article by David Whitelaw about his experiences while putting up Slab Dabby. Great History.
alpenglow.org/nwmj/09/091_S… Jan 30, 2017
Alex Temus
Utah
Alex Temus   Utah
Another trip log (with a few pictures - those slabs look great!) from the First Ascensionist.

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… Apr 18, 2017
Alex Temus
Utah
Alex Temus   Utah
Also here is a very thorough thread about this climb. Several trip reports and lots of photos.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Apr 18, 2017
Medosch, your beta is incorrect. I climbed all of the pitches, the first half of the climb multiple times. I bolted on lead all of the 12th pitch and part of the 13th. Bolts were later added to the 12th so a leader wouldn't be mortally wounded, especially if popping off the mantle far above the first bolt. It was a great route and time with fellow adventurists Whitelaw and Enger. Sep 6, 2017
Brock B.
Seattle, WA
 
Brock B.   Seattle, WA
 
A couple of updates on conditions:

There's now a large downed tree just upriver which makes the crossing much easier. The slide path is heavily overgrown which can make some of the route finding harder. The second bolt on pitch 3 is missing a hanger. The belay station on pitch 13 is missing a hanger and has a rusty nut + carabiner instead. Oct 15, 2018