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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description [Suggest Change]

Several large, smooth, slabby buttresses, generally quite clean.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Drive a few miles southeast of Darrington on the (paved) Mountain Loop Highway. Take turnoff on right (#2060), just across from a campground. This gravel road is also known as the Clear Creek logging road. Drive five or six miles up this road. Stay right on the main fork at about five miles, and soon come to the Eightmile Creek Trailhead (parking on the left, sign and trail on the right).

The trail climbs steeply through second growth and soon enters tall trees. There are some impressive old cedars along the way and about forty minutes from the car the trail leaves the woods and crosses an old somewhat overgrown talus slope. The trail bumps right into the rock at the base of Silent Running (an excellent 7 pitch climb, 5.10a).

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Three O'clock Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Three O'clock Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 5
Road to Nowhere
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
The Big Tree
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Under the Bored Walk
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Till Broad Daylight
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
The Rash
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Magic Bus
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 9
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
The Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route…
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 4
Cornucopia
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
20th Century Clock
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Silent Running
Trad 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Total Soul
Trad 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Penny Lane
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Road to Nowhere
 5
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
The Big Tree
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Under the Bored Walk
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Till Broad Daylight
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Rash
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 2 pitches
Magic Bus
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Charlie Chan's Number One S…
 9
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
The Quin Konehead Pre-Memor…
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Cornucopia
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
20th Century Clock
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Silent Running
 42
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Total Soul
 33
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Penny Lane
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Three O'clock Rock »

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Photos

I am not sure if any bolts were replaced after the recent rockfall. I climbed Silent Running this last week. YES IN JANUARY! I only notice one that had been bent. It is located somewhere mid-route, it still looks fine, and it is still clip-able. Feb 2, 2015
According to Weekend Rock WA: "The South Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock is reached via a path that leaves the main trail about 100 yards shy of the North Buttress and heads up and left through vine maples and granite blocks. This steeper spur trail reaches the bottom of the South Buttress a bit right of the obvious large crack of the Big Tree routes."

Finding the path is a bit tricky without going all the way up to the North Buttress and backtracking on the main trail. Approximate coordinates for the start of the climbers' path to the South Buttress: 48.160211, -121.616292. Jun 12, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
The approach hike takes somewhere between 20-40 minutes, depending on how fast you hike uphill. The turnoff to South Buttress climbs comes about 100' after leaving the timber and goes straight up through some granite blocks. I posted a pic of it. There is normally a small rock cairn at the junction. Dec 10, 2017

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