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Tidbits – first pitch
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
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Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Constantino, Whitelaw, Saunders, Thompson 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,315 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Curt Veldhuisen on Jan 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Tidbits is an overlooked D-town classic that offers an excellent and runout first pitch (5.7 PG) followed by three more difficult ones. Most of the attention it gets lately is from climbers rappelling down it to exit the Kone.
The first pitch, with it's striking thin dike, has the quality and aesthetics to become popular. The three bolts are widely spaced but perfectly located, making it a reasonable lead for anyone solid on 5.8-9 slab. The thinnest smears are before the first bolt and the rock gets more featured higher up. From there, pitches 2, 3 and 4 offer additional technical and mental challenges in the 5.10 range. The rock is clean and solid throughout.
P 1.Upward right of the thin white dike past three shiny bolts, then angle right to the double-bolt anchor on top of the pillar. 5.7 PG.
Either rappel or continue onward:
P 2-4. Knobby climbing upward and left through the A-shaped slab of pitch 3. Toward the top of pitch 2, go left and away from the red slings, which are the belay of the ‘Gastroblast’ variation. The runout fourth pitch ends at the 5th belay of the Kone. Pitch ratings are 10a, 10b and 5.9 with some R-rated sections. See topo for more details.
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