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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Constantino, Whitelaw, Saunders, Thompson 1977
Page Views: 153 total · 26/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Jan 20, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Tidbits is an overlooked D-town classic that offers an excellent and accessible first pitch (5.7 PG) followed by three more difficult ones. Most of the attention it gets lately is from climbers rappelling down it to exit the Kone.

The first pitch, with it's striking thin dike, has the quality and aesthetics to become popular. The three bolts are widely spaced but perfectly located, making it a reasonable lead for anyone solid on 5.8-9 slab. The thinnest smears are before the first bolt and the rock gets more featured higher up. From there, pitches 2, 3 and 4 offer additional technical and mental challenges in the 5.10 range. The rock is clean and solid throughout.

P 1. Upward right of the thin white dike past three shiny bolts, then angle right to the double-bolt anchor on top of the pillar. 5.7 PG.

Either rappel or continue onward:

P 2-4. Knobby climbing upward and left through the A-shaped slab of pitch 3. Toward the top of pitch 2, go left and away from the red slings, which are the belay of the ‘Gastroblast’ variation. The runout fourth pitch ends at the 5th belay of the Kone. Pitch ratings are 10a, 10b and 5.9 with some R-rated sections. See topo for more details.

Location

Three O Clock Rock - near the center of the South Buttress. From the Big Tree start continue left under the Great Arch until you encounter a 1-inch dike heading straight up the slab past bolts. Past Tidbits, the trail climbs and you'll see the low overhang on Magic Bus.

Protection

Pitch 1: 3 draws. Pitches 2-4: 6 draws plus small rack to 2" for pitch 2. Pitches 1 and 2 have fresh bolts but status above is uncertain (due for replacement - will update). Rappel with 2 x 60s - might reach with a 70 or 80?

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