Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser 2018
Page Views: 1,497 total · 50/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on May 7, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

The Mystery Tour strikes up and right, ascending the far edge of the North Buttress slab. It provides a more varied and less traveled alternative to the wide open spaces of Silent Running. The route has difficulties of 5.8 or less, aside from the relentless smearing on pitch 3 (5.9+).

Pitch 1. Climb Road to Nowhere (5.3, bolts). With a little simul-climbing, it goes in one lead (~75 m).

Pitch 2. A mixed-bag of clean and scruffy angling toward the right skyline. Starts straight up two short slabs, passing fresh bolts and a recent rap anchor. Catch a blocky ramp rightward through bits of suspect rock to another slabby section (5.8). Traverse under a sizable overlap and find the bolted belay. (4 bolts & gear, 5.8)

Pitch 3.  The money pitch, featuring 60m (+/-) of 5.9 slab climbing without much relief! You may want a couple of small cams for the initial overlaps, then venture up the loooong narrow slab to the horizontal tree. (13 bolts, 5.9+)

Pitch 4. An increasingly airy pitch up the rounded buttress. From the belay, step up and left, cross a small overlap (small cam) to gain a bolt and a rounded stance. Continue straight up the knobby buttress, which rolls over to the belay. (6 bolts & small cam, 5.8)

Pitch 5. A short pitch that connects to Silent Running. Head leftward below the huge cedar bush, clip a bolt and cross the small rib. Climb the  slab and step left to reach Silent Running’s 5th belay. (3 bolts, 5.7)

All belays have double 3/8" bolts.

Descent options: 1. Rappel Silent Running (if not crowded), or 2. Rappel Mystery Tour, detouring skiers right to reach Road to Nowhere (see topo). Reversing pitches 2 and 3 is not good, trust me! All options require double 60 m ropes.

Location

Right side of North Buttress of 3 O'Clock Rock.  Starts on Road to Nowhere, just a bit right of Silent Running.  Look for dark gray powder-coated bolts.

Protection

Mostly bolts with occasional cams (singles, tiny to 2"). Bring 14 draws and double 60s for the descent.

Photos