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Routes in Three O'clock Rock
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20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Luke 9:25 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Tour T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road to Nowhere S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Till Broad Daylight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Veldhuisen, Heiser 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,497 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Curt Veldhuisen on May 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
The Mystery Tour strikes up and right, ascending the far edge of the North Buttress slab. It provides a more varied and less traveled alternative to the wide open spaces of Silent Running. The route has difficulties of 5.8 or less, aside from the relentless smearing on pitch 3 (5.9+).
Pitch 1. Climb Road to Nowhere (5.3, bolts). With a little simul-climbing, it goes in one lead (~75 m).
Pitch 2. A mixed-bag of clean and scruffy angling toward the right skyline. Starts straight up two short slabs, passing fresh bolts and a recent rap anchor. Catch a blocky ramp rightward through bits of suspect rock to another slabby section (5.8). Traverse under a sizable overlap and find the bolted belay. (4 bolts & gear, 5.8)
Pitch 3. The money pitch, featuring 60m (+/-) of 5.9 slab climbing without much relief! You may want a couple of small cams for the initial overlaps, then venture up the loooong narrow slab to the horizontal tree. (13 bolts, 5.9+)
Pitch 4. An increasingly airy pitch up the rounded buttress. From the belay, step up and left, cross a small overlap (small cam) to gain a bolt and a rounded stance. Continue straight up the knobby buttress, which rolls over to the belay. (6 bolts & small cam, 5.8)
Pitch 5. A short pitch that connects to Silent Running. Head leftward below the huge cedar bush, clip a bolt and cross the small rib. Climb the slab and step left to reach Silent Running’s 5th belay. (3 bolts, 5.7)
All belays have double 3/8" bolts.
Descent options: 1. Rappel Silent Running (if not crowded), or 2. Rappel Mystery Tour, detouring skiers right to reach Road to Nowhere (see topo). Reversing pitches 2 and 3 is not good, trust me! All options require double 60 m ropes.
Pitch 1. Climb Road to Nowhere (5.3, bolts). With a little simul-climbing, it goes in one lead (~75 m).
Pitch 2. A mixed-bag of clean and scruffy angling toward the right skyline. Starts straight up two short slabs, passing fresh bolts and a recent rap anchor. Catch a blocky ramp rightward through bits of suspect rock to another slabby section (5.8). Traverse under a sizable overlap and find the bolted belay. (4 bolts & gear, 5.8)
Pitch 3. The money pitch, featuring 60m (+/-) of 5.9 slab climbing without much relief! You may want a couple of small cams for the initial overlaps, then venture up the loooong narrow slab to the horizontal tree. (13 bolts, 5.9+)
Pitch 4. An increasingly airy pitch up the rounded buttress. From the belay, step up and left, cross a small overlap (small cam) to gain a bolt and a rounded stance. Continue straight up the knobby buttress, which rolls over to the belay. (6 bolts & small cam, 5.8)
Pitch 5. A short pitch that connects to Silent Running. Head leftward below the huge cedar bush, clip a bolt and cross the small rib. Climb the slab and step left to reach Silent Running’s 5th belay. (3 bolts, 5.7)
All belays have double 3/8" bolts.
Descent options: 1. Rappel Silent Running (if not crowded), or 2. Rappel Mystery Tour, detouring skiers right to reach Road to Nowhere (see topo). Reversing pitches 2 and 3 is not good, trust me! All options require double 60 m ropes.
Location
Right side of North Buttress of 3 O'Clock Rock. Starts on Road to Nowhere, just a bit right of Silent Running. Look for dark gray powder-coated bolts.
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