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Road to Nowhere
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 18
votes
Routes in Three O'clock Rock
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20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Tree 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Tree, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gastroblast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knobulator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Luke 9:25 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Tour T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road to Nowhere S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Till Broad Daylight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 48.15921, -121.61707 |
| FA: | Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers) |
| Page Views: | 3,297 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Road to Nowhere offers a 2-pitch slab climb at a mellower grade than it's neighbors. It is a great place to get acquainted with the classic D-town scoops, smears and and knobs and the magic of sticky rubber. As of 2025, it is reasonably bolted for climbers leading slab in the 5.7/8 range (which is to say there are more bolts than on the topo). That said, it is still not 'sport' bolted! It has some easy runouts and requires placing a small cam on pitch one.
1. Follow the Location beta below and head straight up past the two gray bolts and thin crack on your right (1/2" cam) to a ledge with blocks, hopefully still stable. Continue up slabby ground with subtle features to the shiny chains under an L-shaped overlap. (Mid-fifth class, 37 m)
2. Step right and over the low angle overlap and past three bolts to a prominent 3' overlap. Finesse the overlap and continue past four more bolts to a small ledge (rap rings) beneath a large cedar bush you can see from the ground. If you want a bit more challenge, plug a 1.5" cam above the anchor and continue another 30' of 5.7 to the next belay. (5.5, 30 m)
Descent is by rappel, noting the pitch lengths above. For the adventurous, a single 70 will get you back (barely!) to the initial perch or you can swing left toward Silent Running. But double ropes are more straight-forward and needed for most other climbs on this crag.
Location
The Road is on the far right side of North Buttress of Three O Clock Rock, about 70’ right of Silent Running. From where the main hiking trail reaches the base of the slabs, continue another 50 feet, dropping to the lowest point where there is a brownish water stain. This was the original start, abandoned due to chronic wetness and debris. Wander another 20 feet right, looking up for a small left-facing corner and gray bolt hangers. You can rope up at the base or scramble another 20' (via easy slab or brush-pulling options) to a small perch under the first bolt.
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