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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Page Views: 547 total · 28/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Road to Nowhere was established to allow beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1. Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, hard to see!). (5.1, 45 m)

P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge with double bolts below large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m).

Solid climbers can combine into one pitches using 60 or 70 m rope and a bit of simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.


Three O Clock Rock - lower right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple of bolts are obvious.


Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. A longish sling on bolt #3 will reduce rope drag. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!


Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
This may be the first route graded 5.1 that I have ever seen. Good to finally see one. May 27, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
No, not a typo! It's a low-fifth slab climb, beyond that, who knows? Looking forward to seeing what others think about grade and quality. May 27, 2017

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