Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Page Views: 1,281 total · 36/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Road to Nowhere was established to allow beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1.Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, hard to see!). (5.2, 45 m)

P 2.Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge below large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m).

Solid climbers can combine into one pitches using 60 or 70 m rope and a bit of simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.

Location

Three O Clock Rock - far right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple bolts follow a diagonal dike up and right, then straight up to top of pillar. From there, continue up and slightly right

Protection

Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!

Photos