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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Page Views: 505 total, 31/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Road to Nowhere was established to allow beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1. Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, hard to see!). (5.1, 45 m)

P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge with double bolts below large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m).

Solid climbers can combine into one pitches using 60 or 70 m rope and a bit of simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.

Location

Three O Clock Rock - lower right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple of bolts are obvious.

Protection

Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. A longish sling on bolt #3 will reduce rope drag. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!

Photos

Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
 
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
 
No, not a typo! It's a low-fifth slab climb, beyond that, who knows? Looking forward to seeing what others think about grade and quality. May 27, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
This may be the first route graded 5.1 that I have ever seen. Good to finally see one. May 27, 2017