Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Tour T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Page Views: 795 total · 34/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Road to Nowhere was established to allow beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1.Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, hard to see!). (5.2, 45 m)

P 2.Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge below large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m).

Solid climbers can combine into one pitches using 60 or 70 m rope and a bit of simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.

Location

Three O Clock Rock - lower right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple of bolts are obvious.

Protection

Slings plus optional small cam (~1”) for pitch 1. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!

Photos

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
This may be the first route graded 5.1 that I have ever seen. Good to finally see one. May 27, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.3
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.3
No, not a typo! It's a low-fifth slab climb, beyond that, who knows? Looking forward to seeing what others think about grade and quality. May 27, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.3
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.3
Early season, this route can be dusted with sand and other debris from the winter that makes it feel a lot harder. Send a broom up with your rope gun! May 7, 2018
Marshall Phan
Sylmar, CA
  5.4
Marshall Phan   Sylmar, CA
  5.4
The quick link/mallion on the first set of anchors is rusted! Plus there's an almost flatten spinning hanger on the second pitch! Other than that the route is more of calf workout than anything. Its quite slippery at the first pitch due to dirt but the bolts are there when you need them. The views are quite nice! May 28, 2018
Trystan Larey-Williams  
  5.3 PG13
Climbed this yesterday and thought it was a blast. Bolts are sparse but climbing is easy. Flattened hanger on p2 likely the victim of rock fall, probably should be replaced. 70m rope nice to have for rap of p1. Jun 18, 2018
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.3
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.3
Yup that damaged hanger is not in good shape, clip at your own risk! Good news is there are cam placements about 6 feet to the left, under the overlap, about 3" or 3/4" would fit. Hoping to replace that hanger before long. 2 days ago · Temporary Report

More About Road to Nowhere

Printer-Friendly