Road to Nowhere
5.3 YDS 3+ French 10 Ewbanks III UIAA 9 ZA VD 3a British PG13
Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers) |
Page Views: | 3,212 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Road to Nowhere offers beginners a 2-pitch slab climb at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but has 20-30’ spacing that retains a bit of the runout tradition.
P 1. Follow the right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge. Continue ~25 m up the open face to the bolted anchor with shiny chains under an L-shaped overlap. (5.2, 40 m)
P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the second at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge below the large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m). If you want a bit more challenge, continue another 30' of 5.6 to the upper belay.
Solid climbers can combine into a long pitch with some simul-climbing.
Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: One rope-stretcher headed skiers right toward Silent Running.
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