Road to Nowhere
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Three O'clock Rock
|20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)|
|Page Views:||505 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionRoad to Nowhere was established to allow beginners to ascend a long clean slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but the 20-30’ spacing retains a bit of the runout tradition.
P 1. Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge with a bit of debris. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor on an L-shaped overlap (look closely, hard to see!). (5.1, 45 m)
P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the middle at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge with double bolts below large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m).
Solid climbers can combine into one pitches using 60 or 70 m rope and a bit of simul-climbing.
Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: Two easy raps or one rope-stretcher.