Type: Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Page Views: 2,134 total · 42/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Aug 12, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Road to Nowhere offers beginners a clean 2-pitch slab at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but has 20-30’ spacing that retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1. Follow the small right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge. Clip a long sling and continue ~25 m up the open face to a 2-bolt anchor under an L-shaped overlap (shiny chains). (5.2, 45 m)

P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the second at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge below the large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m). If you want a bit more challenge, continue another 30' of 5.6 to the upper belay.

Solid climbers can combine into a long pitch with some simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: One rope-stretcher headed skiers right toward Silent Running.

Location

Three O Clock Rock - far right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple bolts follow a diagonal dike up and right, then straight up to top of pillar. From there, continue up and slightly right

Protection

Six slings will do, or ten if you combine pitches. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!

Photos