Avg: 3 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Greyell, Whitelaw, Packard|
|Page Views:||995 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 1, 2014|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The route starts to the right and above the start of Total Soul - see topo. The first belay can be reached by unprotected slab climbing or, more safely, by a leftward traverse from the first belay of Silent Running.
Pitch 1 (5.7) The warm-up pitch, with moderate (5.7) slab climbing past 5 bolts.
Pitch 2 (5.8 PG) Left and up past four bolts to a small horizontal overlap. Place a small cam, step over and run it out on 5.8 slab to 2 more bolts and the belay. A great pitch and slightly spicy for the grade.
Pitch 3 (5.10a) is fabulous, with sustained climbing up scoops past many (9?) bolts. Scoops get progressively slopier as the difficulty shifts from 5.8 to 5.9, then a bit of 5.10 before the chains.
Pitch 4 (5.10c) heads left and up steeper ground on sweet little knobs to a distinctive black friction slab (10b). From there, traverse leftward to the fourth belay of Total Soul. The last few moves around a bulge are the crux of the route (10c), with excellent bolt placement. Others tell me there are small holds for the traverse, though I couldn't find them.
Descend: Double-rope rappels down Penny Lane or Total Soul.