Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greyell, Whitelaw, Packard
Page Views: 361 total · 6/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 1, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Penny Lane is a high quality 4-pitch slab climb that is seriously overshadowed by its esteemed neighbors, Total Soul and Silent Running. But the climbing on Penny Lane is every bit as as good. Each successive pitch get’s a bit steeper and more difficult as you get more comfortable making those delicate slab moves. By skipping the last pitch(s), you can make it a fine 2-pitch 5.8 or a 3-pitch 10a. Or climb through to Total Soul’s upper pitches for more 5.10 climbing. Lots of options in this neighborhood.

The route starts to the right and above the start of Total Soul - see topo. The first belay can be reached by unprotected slab climbing or, more safely, by a leftward traverse from the first belay of Silent Running.

Pitch 1 (5.7) The warm-up pitch, with moderate (5.7) slab climbing past 5 bolts.

Pitch 2 (5.8 PG) Left and up past four bolts to a small horizontal overlap. Place a small cam, step over and run it out on 5.8 slab to 2 more bolts and the belay. A great pitch and slightly spicy for the grade.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) is fabulous, with sustained climbing up scoops past many (9?) bolts. Scoops get progressively slopier as the difficulty shifts from 5.8 to 5.9, then a bit of 5.10 before the chains.

Pitch 4 (5.10c) heads left and up steeper ground on sweet little knobs to a distinctive black friction slab (10b). From there, traverse leftward to the fourth belay of Total Soul. The last few moves around a bulge are the crux of the route (10c), with excellent bolt placement. Others tell me there are small holds for the traverse, though I couldn'’t find them.

Descend: Double-rope rappels down Penny Lane or Total Soul.

Location

North Buttress of Three O Clock Rock. Approach as for Silent Running to the right.

Protection

Entirely bolts, aside from the overlap on pitch 2. Rack with 10 draws and a few cams to 2.5”. Belays have double bolts and chains.

Photos

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