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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greyell, Whitelaw, Packard
Page Views: 196 total, 4/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 1, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Penny Lane is a high quality 4-pitch slab climb that is seriously overshadowed by its famous neighbors, Total Soul and Silent Running. But the climbing on Penny Lane is just as good, despite having fewer pitches. Each successive pitch get’s a bit steeper and more difficult as you get more comfortable making those delicate slab moves. By skipping the last pitch(s), you can make it a fine 2-pitch 5.8 or a 3-pitch 10a. Or you can use this to reach Total Soul’s upper pitches for more 5.10 climbing. Lots of options in this neighborhood.

The route starts to the right and above the start of Total Soul. The first belay can be reached by class 4 slab climbing or, more safely, by a leftward traverse from the first belay of Silent Running. If traversing, don't head up the first bolted route left of Silent Running, which is Revolver (5.10a).

Pitch 1 (5.7) The warm-up pitch, with moderate (5.7) slab climbing past 5 bolts.

Pitch 2 (5.8 PG) Left and up past four bolts to a small horizontal overlap. Place a small cam, step over and run it out on 5.8 slab to several more bolts and the belay. A great pitch but slightly spicy for the grade.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) is fabulous, with sustained climbing up scoops past many (9?) bolts. Scoops get progressively slopier as the difficulty shifts from 5.8 to 5.9, then a bit of 5.10 to reach the chains.

Pitch 4 (5.10c) heads left and up steeper ground with small chicken-heads to a distinctive black friction slab (10b). Once up that, traverse leftward toward the fourth belay of Total Soul. The last few moves around a bulge are the crux of the route (10c), with excellent bolt placement. Others tell me there are small holds for the traverse, though I couldn'’t find them.

Descend: Double-rope rappels down Penny Lane or Total Soul.

Location

North Buttress of Three O Clock Rock. Approach as for Silent Running to the right.

Protection

Entirely bolts, aside from the overlap on pitch 2. Rack with 10 draws and a few cams to 2.5”. Belays have double bolts and chains.

Photos

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