Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Whitelaw, Woods 2002
Page Views: 1,162 total · 15/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Dec 8, 2017
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

Despite the unappealing name, this is a quality 2-pitch face climb that gets sunshine in the morning and shoulder seasons. Both pitches have 5.9 bits but are mostly easier knobby slab climbing. Normally quite clean, the very bottom accumulates some dirt and needles in the off season that is easily brushed off.

P1. Cross overlap with a small cam to reach a series of bolts and the crux. Easier knob climbing continues to the sloping ledge and onward to the anchor chains. 5.9.

P2. Straight up past more bolts and thin climbing. Toward the top, step right and then traverse left to the belay. 5.9+

Descend by double rope rappels.

Location Suggest change

South face of 3 OClock Rock about 20 feet left of Magic Bus. The route starts by crossing the same thin overlap as MB about 10 feet up, then follows bolts up knobby slabs.

Protection Suggest change

Draws and a few small cams for pitch 1. Shiny 3/8" bolts, thanks to DEA generosity!