Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Duane Constantino, David Whitelaw (1979)
Page Views: 5,406 total · 43/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb up the middle of the sweeping slab between left facing flakes. Aim for the left side of an overlap. Great pro (bolts and gear to 1.5 in cracks on the side) all the way up. Clip the last bolt below the overhang, then pass it on the right (can put more pro in above the bolt).

P2 - A short pitch leads up and left past three bolts to an anchor beneath the left of two overlaps.

P3 - Pass the overlap to the left (7) or straight up through the middle (9). Follow knobby face to the next anchor).

P4 - climb up and left along the face and under a large roof past six more bolts to a good stance.

P5 – Climb the fun, and easier, slab up and left past five bolts to the final anchors.

From the top set of anchors, rap with two ropes down Tidbits. Due to the spacing of the Tidbits pitches, we ended up rapping four times to get to the base. As of Jun 10, the slings on the anchors were getting a little ratty (where there are chains on some of the routes, the Tidbit rappels are all slings).

Location

Three O'Clock Rock. Starts from a terrace between the Great Arch area and the Big Tree start (easiest access from the Great Arch side), and shares the terrace with Cornucopia and Till Broad Daylight.

Protection

Six quickdraws plus some slings. Light rack to 1.5 inches. All anchors are fixed.

Photos