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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Duane Constantino, David Whitelaw (1979)
Page Views: 3,772 total, 42/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb up the middle of the sweeping slab between left facing flakes. Aim for the left side of an overlap. Great pro (bolts and gear to 1.5 in cracks on the side) all the way up. Clip the last bolt below the overhang, then pass it on the right (can put more pro in above the bolt).

P2 - A short pitch leads up and left past three bolts to an anchor beneath the left of two overlaps.

P3 - Pass the overlap to the left (7) or straight up through the middle (9). Follow knobby face to the next anchor).

P4 - climb up and left along the face and under a large roof past six more bolts to a good stance.

P5 – Climb the fun, and easier, slab up and left past five bolts to the final anchors.

From the top set of anchors, rap with two ropes down Tidbits. Due to the spacing of the Tidbits pitches, we ended up rapping four times to get to the base. As of Jun 10, the slings on the anchors were getting a little ratty (where there are chains on some of the routes, the Tidbit rappels are all slings).

Location

Three O'Clock Rock. Starts from a terrace between the Great Arch area and the Big Tree start (easiest access from the Great Arch side), and shares the terrace with Cornucopia and Till Broad Daylight.

Protection

Six quickdraws plus some slings. Light rack to 1.5 inches. All anchors are fixed.
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks David for the details about Quin. Climbing has a lot of interesting characters, but even amongst this lot, Quin stood out. To survive all those falls, he must have also had a uniquely strong ability to survive. Jun 3, 2017
A note on Quin Koenig: As his brother, I climbed with him; fished; hiked; logged and built with him. As a younger brother, I could never keep up and he had such an intensity and physical energy that he poured into everything he did. He learned climbing through an explorers post in Tacoma. When a friend died in a rock fall on Rainier, he just seemed to pour more intensity into the sport. He would come home bruised and battered from many a climb after taking some horrible falls. I saw one of his ropes broken from a fall. Another time, someone told me that he had been soloing a route on Stuart, fallen, and saved himself by grabbing someone else's rope. I've watched him strain to his physical capacity and then steps beyond. He covered the spectrum of climbing from ice to hard rock and then back to glacier. The most I climbed with him was 5.10+. But it did not push him. Often he would solo. I tried to follow, but I could never match him. Frankly, I find that I prefer my risks a bit more mitigated. Still, he survived. He graduated from the UW with an engineering degree. He lost another friend on Rainier and experienced a couple of more severe falls. He worked briefly for Boeing, then in 1980 he stopped climbing and in his words, poured his intensity into his work and other aspects of life. He is now married and living alternately in Belgium and Brazil. Jun 3, 2017
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
Rapping off the top of this route on 8/23/2015, there was a freshly bolted route left of the usual rap line. It looked brand-spanking new; there was still lots of fresh rock dust around the bolts, so they looked like they had gone in a week or two prior. Aside from the new route looking cool, it also provided a nice rap line with fresh new chain-and-ring anchors, instead of the janky webbing of the normal rap line. The stations were reasonably close together, so it looked like maybe(...) you could get by with one 70? This is absolutely unconfirmed, but something someone should check out. Pretty confident that an 80 would work. Aug 29, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Joe - I was wondering what happened to Quinn, and was hoping he was still around.

I remember seeing him at the UW climbing rock around 1980 - he always seemed excited, hyper is what we might say now, and talked in a high-pitched voice. He said that the maximum difficulty he could climb was 5.9, but then he would solo 5.9. Apr 23, 2014
Joe Catellani
Seattle, wa
 
Joe Catellani   Seattle, wa
 
Historic note about Quinn Koenig, for who the route was named. He was a red head with a wild gleam in his eye, and soloed right up to(and sometimes beyond)his ability. Everybody expected him to die soon, but he fooled us all by quiting climbing. After his 1000+ ft fall on steep snow on Monte Cristo he "looked like the Michelin man" from swelling. but he walked out. more cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… Oct 27, 2013
Did the route Monday July 8, 2013. We linked P2 and P3 but the others are too long to link (at least with a 55m rope).

The Kone is a SUPERB adventure! All pitches are interesting and spic & span clean (unlike the bottom of Total Soul which is littered with dirt, pine needles, and other debris from the nearby avalanche chute). The plethora of knobs allows a moderate grade on the steeper upper pitches that traverse above the Great Arch, provided you pick the right knob sequence. The Great Arch being underneath also creates an exposed and aesthetic position that is lacking on other routes.

In summary, I think the Kone is a better route than the classic Silent Running. The only drawback was trying to find the lower rappel anchors. Two of our three double rope rappels were from trees (requiring the "donation" of a sling and biner). Jul 10, 2013
Morrismc
Portland, Or
 
Morrismc   Portland, Or
 
Was on the climb today (8/07/11). Replaced slings on one anchor and had to do three double rope rappels to make it all the way down. Aug 8, 2011