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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ca 1985
Page Views: 2,638 total, 21/month
Shared By: Matt Perkins on Aug 12, 2007 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

'Till Broad Daylight is a five pitch route that ascends a line at the far right edge of The Great Arch feature on Three O'Clock Rock's south buttress.

The first two pitches of "Till Broad Daylight"(established as two pitches with an anchor at midpoint, but often done as just one pitch) offers and excellent introduction to Darrington rock. With only a single 60 meter rope, you can rappel these initial pitches, but for more knobby face climbing, continue on.

Pitch three climbs up a corner and heads left across a short slab to a set of anchors. Pitch 4 starts by stepping left and climbing up and over a small overlap passing two old button head bolts before finding a newly bolted belay. Pitches three and four can be easily combined into one moderate length pitch.

Pitch five climbs straight up on steep knobs to join "The Kone," which trends up and left to a chain belay. This pitch of The Kone still has a few rusty old bolts near a rattly flake that takes cams. Note that the first ascent party on 'Till Broad Daylight avoided intersecting The Kone route and instead followed a line of old bolts heading left just before joining The Kone.

A final sixth pitch of thoughtful low angle knob climbing follows to anchors.

DESCENT: Two ropes are required to rappel, following the line of a route called Tidbits. This will place you on the ground about 200 yards south of where you began. An alternative is to rappel with a 70m line by abseiling the Gastroblast route. A 60m rope will come up short to reach the top of the first pitch on Gastroblast by about 10-15 feet.


Location

To reach Three O'Clock Rock, drive five miles up the Frog Creek logging road (Forest Service 2060) which departs the Mountain Loop Highway three miles southeast of Darrington and directly across from Clear Creek Campground. Stay to the right where the road forks and about a mile further reach the Eightmile Creek trailhead. Park appropriately and don't block the road, there is a trail sign/bulletin board and backcountry registration at the trailhead.

Hike the Eightmile Creek trail uphill through second growth and then tall timber, to where it exits the trees and crosses an old overgrown talus slope about 30 minutes from the car. A climbers trail leaves the hiking trail partway across this open area, about 100 feet before the trail reaches the rock slabs of the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock. Head up through vine maple, bearing left at and in a couple hundred yards the trail meets the South Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock.

'Till Broad Daylight starts on a bushy bench, twenty feet up and at the right side below the Great Arch. Scramble up and right from the base of the Arch, or head back along the access trail and scramble up and left to reach the same point (slightly friendlier).

The Cornucopia Flake is an obvious left facing corner rising from the right end of this bench. This is an excellent, though somewhat run out 5.9 route with a fun 5.5 first pitch (chains, 40m, a good top-rope). There are three or four bolted routes beneath the Great Arch that offer good knob climbing with the one on the right being the easiest (5.7).

Protection

Bring a light rack to 1 1/2" and a dozen runners and draws (the route zig zags enough that you'll want several longer runners along with standard quick draws).
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
 
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
 
Pitch 5 is 5.9 - everything up to there is 5.8. If you want to turn around here, it's a straight rap from a modern anchor over the Great Arch and down Charlie Chan. 7 days ago
Matt Perkins
Seattle, Washington
 
Matt Perkins   Seattle, Washington
 
Curt helped me replace what I think are the last of the old bolts on Daylight the other day (we might have missed one on a traverse where it is not crucial). Enjoy! Aug 28, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
The steeper knob climbing above the great arch is very fun and adds great variety to the route. This could also be a fun link in from the kone, I personally enjoyed it more than the traversing pitch which is linked in to from the kone.

Note there is new stainless hardware and fixe chains on what I believe is the continuation of magic bus which were put in last summer. The hangers are painted to blend in, but easy enough to identify, the rap line trends down climber left from the top. If you look down the v notch on your first rap you will see the tat on tidbits, do not head in the notch, look back climber left of the v notch and you'll find the chains. Apr 11, 2016
Matt Perkins
Seattle, Washington
 
Matt Perkins   Seattle, Washington
 
I was a little unclear in my recent revision. You can break it up different ways, but most parties will join The Kone on their third pitch of climbing, and reach the top anchor on their fourth. Oct 20, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.9-
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.9-
Thanks Matt for the bolt upgrade.

Also, it is nice to know that one can skip the 'intermediate' belay just below the headwall, and reach The Kone in two pitches. The photo in the description is quite helpful. Oct 18, 2015
Matt Perkins
Seattle, Washington
 
Matt Perkins   Seattle, Washington
 
As of October 17, 2015, only a few of the old bolts remain on this climb. Most parties will follow The Kone after climbing the first half of the headwall pitch and if you do this you'll clip a few oldies but there are good bolts where needed. I hope to go back and replace those last ones, too. Oct 18, 2015
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to upgrading bolts on this route! Climbed this yesterday, and all 5 pitches have stainless steel belay bolts. Pitch 3 has 1/4" buttonheads on route, and pitch 4 has 1/4" buttonheads for the first half until it joins The Kone, when the bolts switch to stainless steel.

If you are not comfortable climbing on 1/4" buttonheads, the first two pitches are great quality and highly enjoyable in their own right. The last three pitches are also great if you are comfortable on older bolts. Jul 3, 2015
benegbers
Seattle, WA
benegbers   Seattle, WA
Climbed this on 6/7/15. My partner lead it with a 70 meter rope and I was able to lower her to the ground after setting up TR anchors. I cleaned the TR anchor and rappelled with one rappel. Jun 9, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.9-
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.9-
The anchor at the start of pitch 4 now has new bolts. They were replaced just a few days after my previous comment. Thanks Otto and partner. Aug 24, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.9-
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.9-
The third pitch is really nice climbing, but has old, rusty 1/4" bolts.
The anchor at the top of this pitch has 4 old, rusty, and loose 1/4" bolts. The 4th pitch looks fantastic (I didn't do it, being freaked by the belay bolts...), but also appears to have old 1/4" bolts.

As mentioned above, the first two (or one full-length) pitches have nice 3/8" stainless bolts. Very fun. Jul 14, 2014
Daniel Coltrane
Seattle, WA
Daniel Coltrane   Seattle, WA
as of May 26, 2012 all of the old 1/4" protection bolts have been replaced with 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts for the first two pitches. Jun 6, 2012
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
The bolts on this route are all buttonheads, some of which are loose. The anchor has been retrobolted. Sep 14, 2008