Gastroblast

Gastroblast shares the first 2 pitches with Tidbits before splitting off to the right onto its own line just before the pitch 2 anchors.  Gastroblast continues up the steep knobby headwall above the great arch for 2 more bolted pitches of slab and knob hopping before joining up to the final pitch of the Kone Route.  This nice 5 pitch outing has short well protected cruxes.  The rock is clean and solid with great friction.  This route deserves more traffic than it sees.   All belays have 3/8” bolted anchors with rap rings.  Note that two 60 meter ropes are required to rappel.

Pitch 1. Climb the first pitch of Tidbits following the striking thin dike feature.  Trend right after the 3rd bolt towards the bolted anchor. (5.7, 3 bolts, PG).

Pitch 2. Climb straight up on knobs and friction, following a line of bolts.  Between the first and second bolt a finger sized cam can be placed to tame the runout.    After the 3rd bolt a steep headwall must be surmounted to the right via high steps and a sidepulls/layback moves on a flake. (crux) There is a bolt directly above the steep headwall, but it is hard to see from below.  At this point, Tidbits and Gastroblast separate – with Tidbits heading off left and Gastroblast heading off to the right.  A short stretch of friction climbing above the headwall leads to the next bolted anchor with a small stance atop a narrow ledge.  (4 bolts & gear, 5.10a)

Pitch 3.  A tricky friction move or two off the anchor to the right lead to the first bolt.  Climb knobs and friction up the steepening face.   Some balance intensive moves on small knobs at the 5th bolt provide the crux, but interesting movement utilizing a large pocket provide passage through the steepest part of the wall.  Although not visible from the crux moves at the 5th bolt, the 2 bolt anchor is not far above, up and to the right.   (5 bolts, 5.10a)

Pitch 4. Follow 5 bolts directly up from the anchor on excellent knobs.   The knobs disappear as the angle lessens, but great friction on dishes and small features lead the rest of the way to the 2 bolt anchor.  This anchor is shared with the 4th pitch anchor of the Kone Route (5 bolts, 5.9)

Pitch 5.  Climb the final shared pitch of the Kone Route diagonally up and left past 5 bolts to the final 2 bolt anchor.  (5 bolts, 5.8) 

All belays have double 3/8" bolts and chains.

Descent: From the final anchor, make 4 double rope rappels down Tidbits using two 60 meter ropes.

Gastroblast shares the first pitch of Tidbits, moving up the thin white dike feature found on the slab just downhill and to the left of the Great Arch Routes.  Midway up the second pitch that is shared with Tidbits Gastroblast splits off to the right over a bulge and follows two of its own independent pitches until it joins and finishes on the final pitch of the Kone Route.

Mostly bolts with occasional cams on the second pitch (single rack to 1"). 8 draws would be more than adequate and double 60 meter ropes for the descent. Some bolts are a bit rusty and due for replacement, but all hardware utilizes modern 3/8” expansion bolts.