Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Brooks, Syrjala 1980
Page Views: 2,020 total · 16/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 1, 2014
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A D-town classic - bring your large nuts and some wires too! The Rash (AKA 'Rashionalization') has two contrasting pitches, each with it's own form of spice. Neither is recommended for a budding 5.8 leader, unfortunately

1. Layback the right-facing flake, which is steep and sustained for the 5.7 grade. The flake crack takes nuts and small cams but is parallel and flexy toward the top. About 50 feet up, leave the flake and face climb up and right onto a pedestal. Place a cam under the overlap above (options in the 1-2" range) and continue another 15' to the belay. Take a full set of small cams (tiny - 2") and some medium nuts to protect the flake.

2. The first 80 feet is the "Rash", a unique stairway of scoops and knobs. It is quite easy (low-fifth) and entertaining but entirely unprotected, with the first bolt about 70 feet above the belay! Before launching, check whether the upper Rash is wet. After you’ve clipped it and thanked your higher power of choice, move past a small cam placement, pad left past the technical crux (well protected 5.8) and another bolt to the belay. 

Descend via double rope rappels.

Historical note: Pitch one was originally part of “When Butterflies Kiss Bumblebees” and has become the standard start.

Location Suggest change

The route is on the south aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (can’t miss the official FS sign), follow the standard trail approach to Three O Clock Rock. The trail starts on a bouldery abandoned road grade through small timber then old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with brush below the dome.

About 100 yards into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag, which is plainly visible (if you miss the turnoff, you’ll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop up the crag and head left along its base, underneath the Great Arch.

As you wrap around the base, the trail gets steeper and scrambles up a small corner. From the high point, the flake system is visible. Belay on the sloping ramp where the route starts – preferably with a piece or two.

Protection Suggest change

Gear: Medium rack to 2” (numerous cams ½ to 1½”) and quickdraws. Anchors and pro bolts are modern 3/8"

Photos

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