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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brooks, Syrjala 1980
Page Views: 694 total, 15/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 1, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The Rash has two distinctly different pitches that are equally entertaining. Neither is ideal for a novice 5.8 leader.

1. Layback the right-facing flake, which is steep and sustained for the 5.7 grade. The flake crack takes nuts and small cams but is parallel and a flexy in places. About 50 feet up, the main flake peters out, so face climb up and step right onto a pedestal. Place a 1½” cam under the overlap and upward to the belay ledge. Recommended 5 small (<1") cams to protect the flake.

2. The first 80 feet is the "Rash", a unique stairway of scoops and knobs. It is easy (mid-fifth max) and entertaining climbing but entirely unprotected, with the first bolt about 70 feet above the belay! After you’ve clipped it and thanked your higher power of choice, move past a small cam placement, then pad left past the technical crux (5.8) and another bolt to the belay. Warning: Before launching, check whether the upper Rash is wet.

Descend the route (or it’s neighbor on climbers left) via double rope rappels.

Historical note: Pitch one, as described above, was originally part of a different route called “When Butterflies Kiss Bumblebees”.

Location

The route is on the south aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (can’t miss the official FS sign), follow the standard trail approach to Three O Clock Rock. The trail starts on a bouldery abandoned road grade through small timber then old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with ferns.

About 100 yards into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag, which is plainly visible (if you miss the turnoff, you’ll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop to the crag and head left along its base, underneath the Great Arch.

As you wrap around the base, the trail gets steeper and scrambles up a small corner. From the high point, the flake system is visible. Belay on the sloping ramp where the route starts – preferably with a piece or two.

Protection

Gear: Medium rack to 2” (numerous cams ½ to 1 ½”) and quickdraws. Anchors and pro bolts are modern 3/8"

Photos

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
 
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
 
I definitely thanked my higher power after reaching the first bolt on pitch 2--and put a locker on the draw! May 18, 2017