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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Manuel Gonzalez, Don Williamson (1970)
Page Views: 4,248 total, 34/month
Shared By: Matt Perkins on Aug 11, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

The Big Tree I is one of the first routes climbed in Darrington. "Big Tree I" has been steadily revised slightly over the years, few parties follow the original first pitch that started on Cornucopia Flake. and most modern parties do not actually climb to the big tree itself.

The first pitch takes an obvious crack with a zig zag and a move right into a larger crack and then reaches a set of ledges with rappel slings on a medium sized tree. A chain belay is fifteen feet up and left. From here, pass three bolts and climb a short corner to reach a horizontal traverse left (one pro bolt here). The last move of the second pitch is a downward step to the left. Thence climb upward on flakes and corners, passing left around a tree maybe 50 feet above the belay (short pitch). Climb up the right-had of two corners, and then move out right onto a slab. If you find yourself eying a grassy seam that may have an old piton sticking out of it, it is time to look right and get onto the bolted slab. Pass an uncomfortable slab belay to reach chains at the top of this fourth pitch, maybe fifty feet below and right of the obvious "Big Tree."

Few parties climb to the actual Big Tree. Shake, Rattle and Roll continues for two more pitches, 5.8. A short pitch climbs up and right from the Big Tree chains and a longer, varied pitch follows.

Description and Topo: http://www.mattsea.com/Darr/three.htm

Location

Three O'Clock Rock is home to about thirty routes in addition to The Big Tree. To reach the crag, drive five or six miles up the Clear Creek logging road from the Mountain Loop Highway southeast of Darrington, and take the right (main) fork. In less than another mile, parking is found on the left and a bulletin board and trailhead sign is just off to the right. Hike the Eightmile Creek trail about two miles, at first along an old logging spur and through second growth but eventually entering big timber with some impressive old cedar tress. Just before reacing the crag, the trail exits the trees and crosses an old overgrown talus slope. Straight ahead the trail runs into and skirts the base of the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock; for the South Buttress, a climbers trail heads up and left into the slide maples, part way across this talus slope and 100 yards before the trail reaches the North Buttress.

The route starts with a prominent zig zagging crack where the South Buttress access trail reaches the rock.

Protection

Gear to 3" and long slings will be handy (you may use a 4" piece on the first two pitches).

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