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Routes in Three O'clock Rock
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20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arch Nemesis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Tree 2 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Tree, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gastroblast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knobulator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Luke 9:25 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery Tour T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road to Nowhere S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Till Broad Daylight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 48.15921, -121.61707 |
| FA: | Risse, McKillop, Wojcik, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 3,221 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Curt Veldhuisen on Feb 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Magic Bus offers fine knobby climbing for those comfortable on 5.8 slab. It’s a nice step up from the nearby warm-up ‘Under the Boredwalk’, with similar climbing. The classic configuration is two pitches, though there are two more if you are up for short bolt ladder sections. Magic Bus is faster-drying and cleaner than its neighbors, making it a good early season option.
1. Cross the horizontal overlap at the diagonal white dike (1/2" cam handy) with a 5.7 step-over to reach the first bolt. Follow seven more bolts up the knobby slab. The crux is at the second to last bolt before the anchor, which is just right of obvious cedar bushes (5.8, 35 m).
2. From the belay, clip a bolt and angle rightward, crossing a white streak toward the small left-facing corner. Cross the corner, then head directly up a narrow slab with more classic knobs and the crux. Nice 1" cam near top.(5.8+, 30 m).
3. Short closely-bolted pitch, mix of A0 and free.
4. Another nice slab pitch that continues at around 5.9.
Most will rappel from the second anchors. Single 70 is comfortable, 60 is a rope stretcher so knot your tails! On lower pitch, swing climbers left to reach the ground. May need doubles if you go beyond the second pitch.
The local guidebook Weekend Rock: Washington by David Whitelaw, includes a topo and further description.
Location
The route is on the SE aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (can’t miss the official trailhead sign on the right), the trail follows a rocky abandoned road grade then switches through old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with ferns. Three OClock Rock is in view on your left.
About 200 feet into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag (if you miss the turnoff, you’ll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop to the crag and head left along its base, underneath the huge and obvious 'Great Arch'. Several hundred feet leftward, the trail begins to climb and you will see a long overlap that parallels the base of the slab about 5-10 feet above ground level. The start of Magic Bus is where a thin (~1”) angling white dike crosses this overlap (see Beta photo), and the first bolt is easily visible above.
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