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Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Risse, McKillop, Wojcik, 1979
Page Views: 1,095 total, 24/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Feb 22, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Magic Bus offers the fine knobby slab climbing that Darrington is renowned for at a friendly grade with easy logistics. The climbing is fun and straightforward for those comfortable on 5.8 slab. It’s a nice next step from the local warm-up ‘Under the Boardwalk’, with similar climbing and a quality second pitch, making it an excellent place to break into multi-pitch climbing. Magic Bus is faster-drying and often cleaner than many of its neighbors, making it a good early season option.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 40 m): Cross the horizontal overlap at the diagonal white dike (thin cam under overlap if desired) with a 5.7 step-over past the first bolt. From there, follow seven more bolts up the enjoyable knobby slab. The crux is at the second to last bolt before the anchor, which is just right of obvious cedar bushes.

Pitch 2 (5.8+, 30 m): From the belay, step up right to clip a bolt, then angle rightward, crossing a white streak toward the small left-facing corner. Once across the corner, head directly up a narrow slab with classic knobs. The crux is a bulge above the last bolt where knobs get a bit thinner.

Beyond: The original route has additional pitches that are seldom climbed (potentially dirty and runout, but would love to hear otherwise..)

Rappel the route from fixed anchors with double-ropes (single 60 m will reach the ground if you rap to climbers left)

The local guidebook Weekend Rock: Washington by David Whitelaw, includes a topo and further description.

Location

The route is on the SE aspect of Three O Clock Rock. Starting at the Eightmile trailhead (can’t miss the official trailhead sign on the right), the trail follows a rocky abandoned road grade then switches through old growth before popping out into an open talus slope with ferns. Three OClock Rock is in view on your left.

About 200 feet into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag (if you miss the turnoff, you’ll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop to the crag and head left along its base, underneath the huge and obvious 'Great Arch'. Several hundred feet leftward, the trail begins to climb and you will see a long overlap that parallels the base of the slab about 5-10 feet above ground level. The start of Magic Bus is where a thin (~1”) angling white dike crosses this overlap (see Beta photo), and the first bolt is easily visible above.

Protection

Bolts plus optional small cam for start. Requires 8 draws.
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
  5.8+
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
  5.8+
first 6 feet (under the overlap) was still seeping, but the rest of the route is dry. There was still plenty of pine needles on my ascent but it should be clean now. May 22, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
Rappelled down from Till Broad Daylight/The Kone on new fixe anchors which lead into the belays of magic bus. Per description on The Kone page it sounds like these were just put in last summer. It is steeper knob climbing and looked like will go at a higher grade than the first 2 pitches. Hangers are painted and may not be visible from a distance. Rock did not look to have been cleaned yet. Apr 11, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
This is a fun route, very well protected, where there are more friction/smedging moves a bolt is right there. Also excellent belay stances. Sep 8, 2015