Avg: 2.7 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Risse, McKillop, Wojcik, 1979|
|Page Views:||2,566 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Curt Veldhuisen on Feb 22, 2014|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Pitch 1 (5.8, 40 m): Cross the horizontal overlap at the diagonal white dike (1/2" cam handy) with a 5.7 step-over to reach the first bolt. Follow seven more bolts up the enjoyable knobby slab. The crux is at the second to last bolt before the anchor, which is just right of obvious cedar bushes.
Pitch 2 (5.8+, 30 m): From the belay, step up to clip the bolt, then angle rightward, crossing a white streak toward the small left-facing corner. Cross the corner, then head directly up a narrow slab with more classic knobs and the crux. Nice 1" cam near top.
Beyond: Pitch 3 has been reworked with a mix of 5.10+ and bolt ladders.
Rappel from fixed anchors. Single 70 is comfortable, 60 is a rope stretcher. Beta for 60 m rope: Upper pitch is about 29 m, so knot your tails! On lower pitch, swing climbers left to reach the ground.
The local guidebook Weekend Rock: Washington by David Whitelaw, includes a topo and further description.
About 200 feet into the talus, find a climber's trail heading straight upward toward the crag (if you miss the turnoff, youll find yourself at the base of the North Buttress slab). Hike and boulder-hop to the crag and head left along its base, underneath the huge and obvious 'Great Arch'. Several hundred feet leftward, the trail begins to climb and you will see a long overlap that parallels the base of the slab about 5-10 feet above ground level. The start of Magic Bus is where a thin (~1) angling white dike crosses this overlap (see Beta photo), and the first bolt is easily visible above.