Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Three O'clock Rock

20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Road to Nowhere T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Silent Running T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Till Broad Daylight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 217 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nick Drake on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Cornucopia is a 3 pitch route which starts on a ~30m flake just right of the kone. Enjoyable movement, good gear, and nice stances would make P1 an excellent early trad lead. Pitch 2 and 3 are bolted slab.

Note that this route doesn't dry as fast as the routes to climbers left.

Excellent topo on Matt Perkin's site:
mattsea.com/Darr/pdf/cornuc…

P1 enjoyable flake that goes at about 5.5 to 5.6. Can rap from new fixe chains at P1 with a single 60m, you'll be near the end, use knots.

P2. 5.8-9 slab. This pitch is the reason for the PG13, after the second bolt it's a bit run out as shown in topo. *I didn't continue past the second bolt as it was damp and my testicular fortitude did not exceed my concern for potential cheese grating.*

P3. 5.9, angle increases with interesting knobs.

Can make double rope rappel using til broad daylight anchors.

Location

See photo, only flake like this in the area. If you haven't been to three o'clock rock yet the easiest way to find it would be to take the lower climbers trail left to the "great arch", then bump back right on narrow path to the start of the kone. Flake will be obvious, only feature like this in the area.

Protection

Mostly hand size gear, wide section by tree will take a slightly tipped out BD #3. Slings for bolts on p2 and p3. Double rope for p2 and p3.

Photos

0 Comments