Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 357 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nick Drake on Sep 8, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Cornucopia is a 3 pitch route which starts on a ~30m flake just right of the kone. Enjoyable movement, good gear, and nice stances would make P1 an excellent early trad lead. Pitch 2 and 3 are bolted slab.

Note that this route doesn't dry as fast as the routes to climbers left.

Excellent topo on Matt Perkin's site:
mattsea.com/Darr/pdf/cornuc…

P1 enjoyable flake that goes at about 5.5 to 5.6. Can rap from new fixe chains at P1 with a single 60m, you'll be near the end, use knots.

P2. 5.8-9 slab. This pitch is the reason for the PG13, after the second bolt it's a bit run out as shown in topo. *I didn't continue past the second bolt as it was damp and my testicular fortitude did not exceed my concern for potential cheese grating.*

P3. 5.9, angle increases with interesting knobs.

Can make double rope rappel using til broad daylight anchors.

Location

See photo, only flake like this in the area. If you haven't been to three o'clock rock yet the easiest way to find it would be to take the lower climbers trail left to the "great arch", then bump back right on narrow path to the start of the kone. Flake will be obvious, only feature like this in the area.

Protection

Mostly hand size gear, wide section by tree will take a slightly tipped out BD #3. Slings for bolts on p2 and p3. Double rope for p2 and p3.

Photos

Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.10a
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.10a
Great point above about pitch one, which is the best easy (5.6) trad pitch on 3OC! After surmounting the initial cedar bush, lots of fun laybacking and stemming. If not solid at higher grades, the leader will want a couple extra cams in the 2-4" range. The anchor is right at 30 m, so can top-rope with a 60 m (tight) or longer rope. Jan 21, 2018