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Routes in Civilization Crag

Babylon 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Byzantium S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conquistador S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East India Trading Co. S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Empire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fall of Rome, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Charter Oath S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Gates, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Manifest Destiny S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mayan Pass , The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meerkat Manor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ming Dynasty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mongol Hoarde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sultans and Viziers S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sun Never Sets, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super Tsardom S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
This is Sparta S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Kingdoms, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Umayyad Caliphate S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 3,890 ft
GPS: 36.145, -115.426 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,691 total · 362/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on Mar 1, 2010 with updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

Easy to see form the parking lot, the Civ Crag is marked by a huge northwest-facing varnished corner. Routes range from jugs on a slab to slightly overhanging, and the rock quality is excellent, comprising mostly of the beautiful brown varnish usually associated with canyon routes. Looking for a run of moderate climbs a step up from the crowds at the Panty Wall and Magic Bus? This is the crag for you.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Head down to the right where the main trail initially splits, and then head up through a break to the right of Circus Wall. From there, head east, keeping approximately even in altitude - you'll be almost paralleling the loop road. You'll cross a wash or two, and eventually you should spot the black, NW-facing backside of the crag, sitting below the large steep slab that is the Black Hole. 10-15 minutes from the parking lot.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Civilization Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Josh Janes    
Thank you Mike - I stand corrected. Feb 6, 2016
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
Just want to clarify; the Omega Pacific rings on the climbs that have them are a forged solid construction and are not hollow. They're rated to 20 kN. They are aluminum, so they will eventually groove (just like carabiners used for lowering do), but they are not the weak hollow rap rings you often find. Feb 1, 2016
Josh Janes    
Many routes here have anchors that consist of bolts, quicklinks, and rap rings. The problem is those rap rings are fat, but hollow, aluminum rap rings (I believe made by OP). These rings shouldn't be used at anchors on single pitch climbs as they look nearly identical to fat steel rings but are much less durable and can only survive a very limited number of lowers. Beware!!! Jan 29, 2016
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Removed the old beta photo I posted in favor of a higher resolution one (The max MP currently allows) that actually shows the routes and not just the different walls of the crag like the previous one did. Cheers. Dec 13, 2015
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
Climbed 6 routes on May 15. Manifest Destiny and Umayyad Caliphate are great.
Very nice work Michael! May 21, 2015
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
There are six new routes on the south faces of the formation. They climb very much like gym routes with tons of good holds. With so many hold options, these routes will likely shed for a while, but they've already seen a sizable amount of traffic. Good fun; these make the crag an all year and all moderate grade affair. Oct 5, 2014
Eric72
San Diego, CA
Eric72   San Diego, CA
The crack on the back side was a fun lil end of the day climb to catch the sunset. Perfect belay ledge and rap rings already in place... figured others may love to cruise on up this lil piece so added it on.

Agree with Peter, that arête to the right of Conquistador looks like a great climb, but a lot of the rock looked too sketchy to trust gear on. Could be a really fun bolted route, but would be more moderate than the typical 10s at this crag. The roof at the base arête of the had interesting potential....

Loved this crag, great quality routes without the crowds. Thanks Michael K! Dec 16, 2013
Peter Minearo
San Diego, California
Peter Minearo   San Diego, California
June showed us this location and we all liked the routes. They are a lot of fun. Great routes Michael.

I noticed there looks to be a route on the arête at the end of the wall just right of Conquistador. Then a potential face climb to the right of that. Eric and June climbed the crack on the other side of the wall from Conquistador. So, it looks like that whole other side of the wall (which would be in the sun all day, great for winter climbing) has potential for some fun routes. Probably not very difficult routes, but should be fun. I am sure it will take some time for the routes to clean themselves up, but could be a lot of fun. Are there any plans to develop the other side? Dec 16, 2013
This place is pretty cool - if still a bit brittle...

Also this area DOES NOT get sun year round. On Nov 30th it was in the shade all day. Dec 11, 2013
Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
The routes are now organized from left to right. From left to right on the main (northwest facing) wall,The Fall of Rome to Conquistador. From left to right on the slot canyon wall, The Sun Never Sets to Ming Dynasty. Dec 9, 2011
Eric-D
Las Vegas, nv
Eric-D   Las Vegas, nv
Really fun crag of 5.9 to 5.10's. Each route is consistently high quality. Most other locations have 1 or 2 good routes along with a bunch of crap. These are all good routes worth doing.

We didn't have any problems with the rock quality but if I had read the issue about the washers I would have taken a socket with me. Nov 26, 2011
Wear a helmet. I found a couple of BIG loose blocks that are looking to shed in the near future, and though the rock quality is good for the area and the crag's cleaning up well, I'm pretty sure that the 8+9 on the main wall are going to be the site of some accidents-the only ones at the cliff that suck, and it's hard to see them cleaning up anytime soon. May 27, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Finally made it out here, and I have to say, thanks Michael! This is a really neat little crag with a pile of pretty good routes and a couple of real gems for the grade. If you're a budding .10 leader, this is the crag for you- five really good .10s, a fun .8, and a couple other moderates to round out your day.

Edit: Looks like this crag is getting some real traffic and cleaning up nicely- very little broke off today, I would say that helmets are optional now, but be aware that some crispies will pop off now and then. Dec 14, 2010
Sean Critchfield
Las Vegas, Nevada
Sean Critchfield   Las Vegas, Nevada
Amazing Crag. I am glad to have found it early as I suspect it will soon be a very crowded spot. Oct 13, 2010
Finally a well needed crag of 10's. We did the entire main wall minus the 10d on the far right. We will be back to try the corridor routes, had shade until 4:00pm. Although I have a strong feeling that all these routes will move up a 1/2 grade or full once all the holds start breaking off.
Good work Mike!! Jun 1, 2010
Pretty good crag of moderates! I think this place will get a LOT of traffic. May 23, 2010
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
hard at work as always mr. kimm, thanks for adding more routes bro!

:-)

jon May 21, 2010

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