Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Killis Howard
Page Views: 2,389 total · 24/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on May 30, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Splitter at a sport crag. Reminiscent of Yin+Yang but thinner, more smearing, and much smaller pro. A good excuse to visit Civilization Crags and the best rock on the cliff. Not much real crack climbing on this one, more of a V3/4 boulder problem with good gear, but it's an exciting line that will reward those that are adept at placing pro quickly from smears. Worthwhile.

Location

The arching thin splitter above an offwidth flare sandwiched between Babylon 5.8 and Conquistador on the right side of the main wall. Shares anchor with Conquistador.

Protection

Cams tiny to #4, exact beta would kinda ruin the fun. Bringing 2 #00 TCUs is a good idea, I used a #9 nut but it's very optional. No long slings or trickery, just a few cams added to your sport kit.

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