Supermodel
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | FA: Ben Gilkison, Stamati Anagnostou. FFA: Benny G 9.3.21 |
Page Views: | 1,812 total · 43/month |
Shared By: | Ben Gilkison on Sep 4, 2021 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Little people rejoice! Supermodel is the new direct start to Model Worker which completely avoids the original shoulder wrecking span which has left most sub 5 foot climbers scratching their heads...well before the 5.11b crux. What at first appears blank from the ground...upon closer inspection yields small sets of curious holds that require precision, high steps, insane balance, and single leg squat power leading up to the huge rail, and finishing at the short anchor; but of course would be even better linking up and through Tadpole.
Some history: TR'd in all or part by Andrew Philbin in the very early 21st century (best recollection). I recall doing the direct moves back in 07' after futile efforts to do the Lynn Hill stem solution on MW (most likely due to my lack of frontal plane hip flexibility). At the time, I gave the direct a lead by climbing up to the eye bolt on MW, back down to the ground, and then climbing over right to the direct start...eventually falling and swinging way left to slam hard into the wall. I recall the climbing being brilliant but the fall absolutely terrible.
I'm certainly not a fan of squeeze jobs and unnecessary bolting, but do believe the distance between the original MW line and Supermodel allows adequate breathing room. Moreover, the climbing is just SO awesome!! I would imagine the grade is all over the place depending on body composition, skill, flexibility, height etc. Felt like Index 5.12c to me. The direct now has 2 bolts. My girls wanted me to name the next FA I did after them, so AKA Sierra-Rose.
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