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Princely Ambitions
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Clint Cummins, Jeremy Metz, 6/1977 |
Page Views: | 25,798 total · 124/month |
Shared By: | Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
Somewhat of an Index classic, Princely can be pretty popular. The first pitch is the best part. The Princely Ambitions area is basically the first part of the Main Wall you pass directly by on the main trail. Princely starts up an easy flake to the left of some shorter bolted routes whose anchors are pretty clearly visible from the ground.
P1 (5.9) Head left up the easy flake/ramp, then out onto the face past one bolt (used to be two bolts...), then up more flakes. At the top of the flakes, follow a chalked-up ledge traversing left and then straight up the corner all the way to the belay (bolts). The pitch is long, so don't give up on the anchor, it is there.
Avoid the temptation to finish at the "Nobody tosses a dwarf" anchors, which are partway up the final corner, just a little to the right. If you do this early exit, you miss some fun, relatively easy corner climbing. Instead, continue until the corner ends at a large comfy ledge.
P2 (5.8) Continue up the left crack to a rap station.
From the top of P2, you can continue up and left through the trees to the Winky Dinky cliff.
P1 (5.9) Head left up the easy flake/ramp, then out onto the face past one bolt (used to be two bolts...), then up more flakes. At the top of the flakes, follow a chalked-up ledge traversing left and then straight up the corner all the way to the belay (bolts). The pitch is long, so don't give up on the anchor, it is there.
Avoid the temptation to finish at the "Nobody tosses a dwarf" anchors, which are partway up the final corner, just a little to the right. If you do this early exit, you miss some fun, relatively easy corner climbing. Instead, continue until the corner ends at a large comfy ledge.
P2 (5.8) Continue up the left crack to a rap station.
From the top of P2, you can continue up and left through the trees to the Winky Dinky cliff.
Protection
Standard trad rack to 3-4". A small cam is very nice for the traverse (e.g. purple Alien). Larger cams are nice for the second pitch. There are anchors/rap stations at the top of both pitches. You need 2 60-m ropes to rap the route.There is one bolt at the start of the rightward traverse.
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