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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Clint Cummins, Jerry Metz
Page Views: 15,074 total, 105/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Somewhat of an Index classic, Princely can be pretty popular. The first pitch is the best part. The Princely Ambitions area is basically the first part of the Main Wall you pass directly by on the main trail. Princely starts up an easy flake to the left of some shorter bolted routes whose anchors are pretty clearly visible from the ground.

P1 (5.9) Head left up the easy flake/ramp, then out onto the face past one bolt (used to be two bolts...), then up more flakes. At the top of the flakes, follow a chalked-up ledge traversing left and then straight up the corner all the way to the belay (bolts). The pitch is long, so don't give up on the anchor, it is there.

Avoid the temptation to finish at the "Nobody tosses a dwarf" anchors, which are partway up the final corner, just a little to the right. If you do this early exit, you miss some fun, relatively easy corner climbing. Instead, continue until the corner ends at a large comfy ledge.

P2 (5.8) Continue up the left crack to a rap station.

From the top of P2, you can continue up and left through the trees to the Winky Dinky cliff.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 3-4". A small cam is very nice for the traverse (e.g. purple Alien). Larger cams are nice for the second pitch. There are anchors/rap stations at the top of both pitches. You need 2 60-m ropes to rap the route.
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
What a great climb. Can't wait to come back for P2.

We had a 60m and both ends reached the ground when not clipped through pro (some swing potential if TR'ing this way). As mentioned above, if lowering leader on a 60, you can lower to the ledge climber's left and easily down climb or take Roger's Corner path down).

Gear Beta:The biggest piece I had was a #2 and I would've felt more comfortable exiting the flakes (face moves right) with a #3. May 8, 2016
gregman
 
gregman  
 
Even if you only plan to do the first pitch, I'd strongly recommend belaying your partner from the top. Not only will this ensure you have enough rope on a 60m or 70m, but the view is excellent and with a long enough clove hitch from your own rope + an ATC in guide mode, you can set up quite a comfortable belay station to watch your partner ascend, too. Aug 17, 2015
Thad Arnold
Oregon
 
Thad Arnold   Oregon
 
A good way to manage rope drag but also protect the mantle move where the climb starts traversing back to the left is to place in the horizontal before doing the mantle (a red C3 for me) and then just reach down and clean the piece after you've done the move. May 23, 2013
This climb is top rate.

I've led it twice and still think it's intimidating. Rope drag and pro aren't really an issue. What get's me are continuing 5.8 moves after the traverse. You have to protect that or risk a long swinging fall and certain injury, but then above that you risk catching a leg behind the lead rope if you come off.

I wouldn't want to fall there. There's several places up high on this pitch that I wouldn't want to fall.

Will I do it again? For sure. Is it 10A? I doubt it, but it's surely harder than Godzilla.

The second pitch is also worth doing. It's deceptively hard and probably more like 5.9 for just a move at the bottom, but it's very straight forward and well protected. Apr 2, 2013
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
stellar! sling your last piece (#3 c4 for me) before you make the face traverse out right super long and then dont place anything until you get to the hand traverse (green alien) to avoid hanging yourself with ropedrag later on. I think I used 12 slings in all. Jul 27, 2012
Ian G.
PDX, OR
 
Ian G.   PDX, OR
 
The 5.9 mantle is not nearly as hard as it looks. Definitely bring enough slings and use them! I didn't and suffered accordingly... Aug 30, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+
I rapped this yesterday with a 60m rope. As the aforementioned post says, angle down and to the climbers left. Aug 13, 2008
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
A 60m rope will get you off if you angle down and to the climber's left. Jul 3, 2007
dean rose  
 
I start this climb from off the trail to Rodger's Corner and routinely lower off and do laps on the first pitch with a 70 meter rope. One of my favorite pitches anywhere! Jan 29, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
This is a VERY long pitch that wanders, so bring lots of long slings! Some committing moves will be encountered, so I recommend being comfortable at the grade. A little bit of everything here including slab, liebacks, steep hand traverses, etc. Bring a big assortment of gear up to #3 Camalot. A 70m rope just barely makes the big ledge, but some downclimbing from the ledge would be required. Jul 2, 2006