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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 1151 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,605 total, 25/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Jul 25, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A lesser-done Index classic with lots of variety. There are multiple 5.10 sections, with stemming, slabbing, and crack climbing, all separated by rests. From the anchor atop Slow Children, step left and stem up toward a bolt, roof, and slab. Atop the slab, a hard v-slot move gains a large left-facing corner and more stemming, leading left (with gear) to a stance beneath the large roof. Pull the bolted roof (crux?) and follow a finger and hand crack to anchors atop the lower town wall.

Adding this to the 3 pitches below makes for a great stretch of climbing with each pitch ~ 2 letter grades harder than the one before.

This pitch should get done a lot more, and it needs the traffic to keep it clean.

You can rappel from atop this pitch all the way to the ground with a single 70m by going back down each pitch. If you have a single 60m, do one short rap to rappeler's left, then a second one to the top of Slow Children, then rap Slow Children, P2 City Park, and Godzilla individually.

Location

This takes the line above/left of the anchor atop Slow Children, and pulls a roof obviously visible from the railroad tracks.

Protection

Bring a lot of runners and draws, ~10 or so at least.

A single set of cams to #2 and a few wires (you'd likely have these to have arrived 3pitches up) is fine.

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Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.11a
A great pitch and currently pretty clean. It didn't feel any harder than Slow Children to me. You can walk off the top via a fixed line to the right which brings you to the trail on top of the LTW. Oct 30, 2017
No reason to stop after slow children. The route deserves more traffic - its a great way to top out the wall! Only slightly more difficult than Slow Children - slightly more physical and a little more thought provoking. Jun 18, 2016
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
 
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
 
Spot on rack beta and info on runners.

Climbed at end of March 2015 after 3 or 4 dry days. There were some sections of the slab which were wet after the left facing corner. There is also a significant amount of moss/mud on the ledge below the v-slot at the start of this corner. All of this seems to be avoidable without making the pitch much harder. The slab moves felt like the crux to me, felt similar to spineless at Private Idaho (e.g. 11a).

Has a cool alpine feeling given how you need to run the gear, you are at the top of wall, and the general decrease in steepness compared to lower pitches. Very psyched. Mar 31, 2016
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
  5.11-
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
  5.11-
I did the FA of this with Chris Henson some time ago. dont really remember the exact year. And the name should be Tommy's Sandbox. Jul 4, 2014
Ryan Hoover
  5.11-
Ryan Hoover  
  5.11-
Awesome pitch, definitely deserves more traffic! Jun 4, 2014
Drewsky  
This has a little of everything including slabs, corners and a roof. Definitely a nice addition above Slow Children. Aug 28, 2012