Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 32 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 638 total, 21/month
Shared By: wayne wallace on May 26, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Crux is right off the second set of chains above Jap Gardens

Location

I get there by doing Princely, Dr. Sniff then traversing ledges for 30m to the end of the ledges. From there one can see the 2 roofs that you split on KVBulow. You can also make it a finish pitch to full Jap Gardens.

Protection

micro cams to #1 camalot. Bolts at top

Photos

- No Photos -
Another pitch that deserves more traffic.. As Blake mentioned, the route starts at the exact height as the start of Slow Children. Walk 5m to the left of Slow (very safe, but stay roped in - there is a small ledge to walk across. A big tree is even growing on this ledge - walk behind it and you have a bomber piece of pro in case you were to fall). There is a 2 bolt anchor at the base of the route.
The crux is no doubt immediately off the chains. The first few moves are committing because you can't place any pro until a few feet higher. Once through this crux, its a really fun finger crack to thin hands crack to a roof. Klaus goes through the center of the roof. Trapped by a Hamster goes to the right in an amazing, tricky bottomless corner. The gear is very good for Klaus. But if you decide to do the Hamster variation, make sure you have several small nuts and be ready to climb above tiny trinkets. Jun 18, 2016
Easier approach is to climb to the base of Slow Children and walk 5m left.
The real Claus Von Bulow is spelled with a C, and has quite a story behind his infamy. May 26, 2015