Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: FFA P1: Terry Lien, Tom Michael. P2: Mike Schaeffer (as one long pitch from the ground)
Page Views: 5,431 total · 35/month
Shared By: Ryan Triplett on May 5, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb the initial section of Japanese Gardens until you can protect the rightward entry moves with a bolt (at the chalkstone halfway up the hands section ). At this point the climb turns strenuous and technical. Once established in the corner climb through hard moves up to an obvious pin scar, from here another challenging section leads to a purely fun .11 finger crack to the chains. The second pitch has now been freed at .12d (I think), though I have never tried, so don't hold me to that.

Location

Start as for Japanese Gardens. From the ground it is the obviously difficult looking right facing corner that trends rightward off of Japanese Gardens.

Protection

Protection is thin, but there. Everyone that I know seems to protect this testpiece a bit different. It is all there, just not the most obvious.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The "full" Stern Farmer (.12c/d?) is a combination of the original first and second pitches climbed in one pitch from the ground. Above the first anchor, a difficult move enters a flared chimney (standard Index f[l]are). An excellent Yellow Alien and, higher up, some fixed mank, protect the flare. An airy roof move exits the chimney; above, fixed copperheads and some good 00-0 size TCU's protect a hard (.11+) balance move above. A bolt then protects moves to the anchor. This extension/combination should not be missed! Jul 3, 2008
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
In Index the locals spell sandbag s-t-e-r-n Feb 4, 2012
Yet another variation on p1 is to move left after the anchor and reach the 2nd crux of Japanese gardens from directly below, climbing out the flake. I've heard this variation called "Sushi Farmer" and you'll want whatever gear you like on P1 Stern, plus a hand and finger cam and a few long slings. If both of these climbs were already 4-stars, this variation is off the end of the quality scale.

P2 Stern Farmer ~5.12a - A mellow finger lock and a compression move or two lead to a powerful pull establishing up into the chimney/stem. There's a good-looking fixed head you can clip before the crux unless your're short. Since this crux might result in fall to the p2 belay stance, consider linking p1+p2 or lowering the belayer to a nice no-hand stance a few meters beneath the anchor. After getting into the chimney, a good fixed wire ( and later 2 fixed pins) protect tenuous flare chimney work, using knobs for feet, the hardest move is at mid height where there are no knobs for a second and your chicken wing skills get a test. Pull out of the chimney on a jug rail ( small cam) and face climb straight left past a bolt to the anchors atop p1 J. Gardens (VAR) or mantle up and right, joining P2 of batskins below the .11d crux move, (the 'fixed' heads all fell out in 2014) and finish via that pitch, which ends 10-15m directly above the anchors of p1 J gardens.

Gear P2- single set from purple c3 / grey TCU to purple camalot, and a few runners. Feb 9, 2013
MorganH
  5.12+ PG13
MorganH  
  5.12+ PG13
Specific gear for the sushi farmer ending is one #2 C4, and one green alien, and one red alien for after the crimp move at the top of JG if you like to place a piece up there. Oct 7, 2013
MorganH
  5.12+ PG13
MorganH  
  5.12+ PG13
Spoiler alert, beta in this video.

Stern farmer video Jan 31, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Morgan for posting that video. Amazing job on the route - beautiful! May 9, 2014
seriously cool.i can't wait til i can do this one. Sep 14, 2014
kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
The sushi farmer linkup is so good it deserves to be listed as its own route. If you can climb Stern, definitely bring the extra pieces and enjoy the full 35M of what index does best! Oct 26, 2015
Stig .
Seattle
  5.12
Stig .   Seattle
  5.12
Sushi Farmer is THE way to end this pitch. Admittedly, I haven't tried the extension, but there's no way it could be better :) Apr 22, 2016
Stig .
Seattle
  5.12
Stig .   Seattle
  5.12
Retract previous comment. I lead Stern Full Patz Style the other day and it's wild. I did this step across beta to get into the flare and find the flare climbing to be easier and more fun than Iron Horse's flare. I think if folks are working Stern they should go for one of the extensions as they each add even more memorable and engaging movement. Dec 11, 2017
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
What is Patz Style? Dec 12, 2017
Stig .
Seattle
  5.12
Stig .   Seattle
  5.12
It's the left exit out of the flare to JG anchor. According to the guidebook he did the FA of that variation. Dec 14, 2017