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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,542 total, 130/month
Shared By: Cat Cahoon on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Pitch 1: (5.9) Godzilla

Pitch 2: (5.9) From the anchor, traverse right (one bolt) to the major corner with a large flake. (optional belay from chain anchor on a ledge off right after the large flake to reduce rope drag) Above the flake, traverse left (reach) into a finger crack then pull steep jugs to see the anchor on a nice ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Start climbing right of the belay traveling back left above the belay. Up cracks to a slabby traverse left (bolt) with good feet. Follow crack up to a flare. Can climb flare or stem right of flare. Belay from chains by a tree.

Pitch 4: (5.9) Follow handcrack in left facing corner up to a bolt on a dark pillar. Stem through blocky bulge to low angle finger crack.From there, go right to a chain anchor. (This last part is vegetated)

Descent: Rap the route with a 70m rope

Protection

Double rack to #3, long slings and draws, 70m rope.

Photos

Climbed Park Ranger 10/29. There's a loose block on what mountain project calls pitch three.

Before the traverse with the bolt, maybe half way between the belay and the traverse bolt... Approximately 2' in height and 6-8" wide, dunno how deep. It has a chalked jug-ish hold on top and can instinctually be grabbed, and likely pulled out. Bypassed by using the sharp arete to the left. Oct 30, 2017
Aaron O
Seattle, WA
Aaron O   Seattle, WA
Well I posted about a year ago asking out this, and found out for myself yesterday! Great climb. We thought route finding was a little harder than we expected. Not all of the moves or cracks you are supposed take are obvious. A couple run out sections, but overall the pro is very good. Pitch 3 felt harder than 5.9, especially at the flare, but maybe it was because I was a bit pumped by the time I got to it. We did not do P4, as it was very vegetated. A fantastic way to end is to do a short wrap down and to climbers left and set up a TR on Slow Children if you don't want to lead it. Sep 11, 2017
Couldn't believe there was a 5.9 link up of the lower town wall until I did it, super cool. Would definitely do it again.
Still dirty up top. Adventure climbing status in a few places where it is easier.
For P1 you could belay after the traverse, at the base of the finger crack, if the belay at godzilla is crowded and you mind rope drag.
P2 Awesome but the finger crack is over too soon.
P3 The chimney part protects well and was a surprise but didn't feel crazy for the grade.
P4 Dirty in spots. Will get better with every lap it sees. Jul 4, 2017
Tammy Le  
 
First 3 pitches were amazing, 4th pitch was a dirty, dirty bush grovel which I wouldn't do again until someone cleaned it. However, I would happily re-do the first 3 pitches again and again, they were that amazing!

Pitch 1: See Godzilla for info.

Pitch 2: Easiest pitch in terms of technique, but had a few power moves with poor feet. Gear protected pretty well though, so didn't feel dangerous! Super fun for sure!

Pitch 3: The money pitch in my opinion! If you're not used to wider, slightly flaring cracks, it can seem a lot harder than 5.9. First half was some absolutely amazing hands/fists, but the second half is where the grunt work came into play! Definitely got some good thigh jams in, and did a good amount of sweating to squeeze my way up through the flaring crack. Did it on a typical double rack, didn't feel like I was low on gear.

Pitch 4: Dirty, dirty grovelling mess with tons of spiderwebs when I did it in July 2016. I would not recommend it until someone goes up to clean it. It had some cool movements, but was so dirty, it was not particularly enjoyable. The last bit to the anchors was especially awful, requiring you to pull through vegetation. Sep 27, 2016
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
  5.10-
If that third pitch is a 5.9, it's the hardest 5.9 at Index. A full value pitch for sure, likely easier if cleaner, but 5.9? It was noticeably harder than the two pitches that preceded it. Aug 1, 2016
Aaron O
Seattle, WA
Aaron O   Seattle, WA
Has anyone climbed this recently? I looked at it yesterday and it looked pretty dirty. Pretty awesome to have a 4 pitch 5.9 at the LTW, and I am bummed I wasn't prepared to do some cleaning. Jul 25, 2016