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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson 1983
Page Views: 1,132 total, 24/month
Shared By: Stealthy on Jan 17, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The leftmost of the 3 pitches above P1 of Japanese Gardens. Traverse left to the shallow right facing corner. With difficulty work up on tips in the crack, arĂȘte pinches, and knobs. About halfway up, the crack on the right gives some options and a nice moves finishes to a mantle onto the ledge.

Location

Above pitch 1 of "Japanese Gardens". The leftmost of the 3 cracks. Finishes on the ledge with chain anchors above pitch 2 of "Japanese Gardens" rappel to the P1 anchor of JG. 70m single rope reaches the ground from P1 of JG.

Protection

LA's on FA. All pins are now gone. Easily top-roped from chains atop P2 of "Japanese Gardens"
UPDATE 2 new pins have been added as of 4/10/14
UPDATE 11/19/14 new pins have since fallen out or been removed.

Photos

Stealthy  
 
nice Mikey! i could see how it could have been led without the pins, but probably a touch spicy for most potential suitors..? I too have TR's the "if god wrote you a letter" A2 thing in the middle...my favorites of those 4 lines off the ledge is currently a toss up between "dogs life" and "trout farm". I have put maybe 5-6 laps recently on "trout farm massacre" so its a bit cleaner now. NIce steep jams, high steps, and even a pocket pull! come back to the home cliff sometime buddy!!! Jul 4, 2014
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
I lead this thing a few years back without any pins in place. Don't remember needing any fixed gear. Fun Pitch. I also worked on the the A2 pitch to the right. I know I tr'd it but can't remember if ever bothered to lead it. Then there is also Trout Farm Massacre to the right of the original p2 of JG. Remeber it being a bit licheny but not that big of a deal. Jul 4, 2014
Stealthy  
 
thanks for adding the hardware Blake. i wonder how many years have passed since the last time this cool pitch was led? May 4, 2014
There are a few unquestionably good pieces possible through the middle section, but the first few moves off the ledge (crux) are pretty "R". (no pins remain). The final moves to the anchor are also quite runout, but a good belayer would likely keep you ok if you blew them. May 3, 2014
I climbed on this thing today. Really fun! Mar 23, 2014