Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson 1983
Page Views: 1,253 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kevin N. on Jan 17, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

The leftmost of the 3 pitches above P1 of Japanese Gardens. Traverse left to the shallow right facing corner. With difficulty work up on tips in the crack, arĂȘte pinches, and knobs. About halfway up, the crack on the right gives some options and a nice moves finishes to a mantle onto the ledge.

Location

Above pitch 1 of "Japanese Gardens". The leftmost of the 3 cracks. Finishes on the ledge with chain anchors above pitch 2 of "Japanese Gardens" rappel to the P1 anchor of JG. 70m single rope reaches the ground from P1 of JG.

Protection

LA's on FA. All pins are now gone. Easily top-roped from chains atop P2 of "Japanese Gardens"
UPDATE 2 new pins have been added as of 4/10/14
UPDATE 11/19/14 new pins have since fallen out or been removed.

Photos

I climbed on this thing today. Really fun! Mar 23, 2014
There are a few unquestionably good pieces possible through the middle section, but the first few moves off the ledge (crux) are pretty "R". (no pins remain). The final moves to the anchor are also quite runout, but a good belayer would likely keep you ok if you blew them. May 3, 2014
Kevin N.
Wenatchee
  5.11c
Kevin N.   Wenatchee
  5.11c
thanks for adding the hardware Blake. i wonder how many years have passed since the last time this cool pitch was led? May 4, 2014
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
I lead this thing a few years back without any pins in place. Don't remember needing any fixed gear. Fun Pitch. I also worked on the the A2 pitch to the right. I know I tr'd it but can't remember if ever bothered to lead it. Then there is also Trout Farm Massacre to the right of the original p2 of JG. Remeber it being a bit licheny but not that big of a deal. Jul 4, 2014
Kevin N.
Wenatchee
  5.11c
Kevin N.   Wenatchee
  5.11c
nice Mikey! i could see how it could have been led without the pins, but probably a touch spicy for most potential suitors..? I too have TR's the "if god wrote you a letter" A2 thing in the middle...my favorites of those 4 lines off the ledge is currently a toss up between "dogs life" and "trout farm". I have put maybe 5-6 laps recently on "trout farm massacre" so its a bit cleaner now. NIce steep jams, high steps, and even a pocket pull! come back to the home cliff sometime buddy!!! Jul 4, 2014