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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Ben Gilkison & Ryan Daudistel
Page Views: 1,472 total · 30/month
Shared By: Ben Gilkison on Jan 29, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Roughly half of this route comprises terrain from the original 2nd pitch of Snow White (aid). Like everything else on the Lower Wall, the rock is impeccable and the moves technical. However, this pitch really stands out because of its incredible variety. First 30 feet is cruiser 5.10ish, then you can literally sit down and gather your wits for the boulder crux; and of course, ogle the panorama of Merchant and Mt. Index. The BP will be vastly different depending on height. I'm barely 5' and used a mono under-cling to access to start holds. Taller climbers 6'+ might utilize an enormous reach. Either way, it is challenging. --- more 5.10 follows to a slabby rest position. Once at the roof, rev up the biceps & dance on across to an exposed perch. Once rested, pop the clutch and switch into crack mode. Punch it high before placing a piece, then hang on till the anchor. This could be more 12+ but according to the Index Decimal System...well, let's say 5.12 and see where the chips fall after some repeats.

Location

NTAD lies mostly between Tuna Boaters and Tad pole. It shares the same finish anchor with the latter route. The start (bolted anchor with chain) is accessed via the first pitch of Princely Ambitions (to the right) at approximately 2/3 height.

Protection

This route is mostly bolted, but the final 30 feet follows a flared crack and requires a few finger size pieces. I'd also recommend a couple small wires at the finish. Use long runners just before after during the roof traverse to mitigate drag.

Photos

Ben Gilkison  
 
Ok, its 11d. Someone should try this. :-> Aug 27, 2015
Ben Gilkison  
 
Thanks Jon. Last month I ran into Greg on holiday from work in Israel. It was really cool to hear all about his experience on the route back in the day. From Tuna Boaters anchor it is quite easy to TR most of the roof and lower sections. Though it will probably never achieve "popular" status, it is nonetheless a remarkable climb, and worth doing for those who can. Jan 30, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Great job Ben!

For decades, I have looked over at the upper part of this route and imagined doing the moves. But hearing about Greg Olsen working on it a long time ago make me think it was way too hard, so I never ventured. Still is probably too hard for me, but it helps to know it now goes.

I never thought about the lower half. That part looks fun too. Jan 30, 2014

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