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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Anderson, Donn Heller. FFA P1: Larry Kemp, Max Dufford, Jim Purdy
Page Views: 4,416 total, 31/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The bolted dihedral left of Sagitarius and Iron Horse. Starts out with a SUPER technical crux using horribly small gastons, pinscars and smears for opposition. All the campusing power in the world won't get you off the ground on this thing. The body tension/insecurity fest continues to another crux pulling the first roof, then eases for a bit of very fun 10/11ish face climbing until the final crux, involving shallow locks and high steps through a small roof. Amazing!

Amandla, the 13b/c arete climb, follows Numbah 10 for the first 5 bolts, then breaks right.

I gave this a generic "5.12." The books give it 12b, which is a laughable sandbag; Index is burly, for sure. I'm not suggesting a rating change above because: a) I haven't redpointed it and b) who cares? But if your ego hurts after this one, just remember how much fun the route is and that it would be a 5.12c or d anywhere else.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Stick clip the second bolt if you like your face and ankles.

Photos

kerwinl
  5.12
kerwinl  
  5.12
New bolts and anchors as of October 2015, including the rearrangement and addition of a bolt at the start. Most should feel comfortable leading this now, without needing to stick clip the second bolt. A small piece could be placed by the leader before bolt #1 if they desire. Either way, thanks to the parties involved in rebolting. Nov 25, 2015
Ol Toby
CA
  5.12
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12
This pitch represents a paradigmatic granite problem: when a feature is devoid of holds to pull on in a downward direction, how does one accomplish continuous upward movement?

The key move to enter the flare appears effortless when deftly performed yet can feel dang impossible in low-friction conditions. Excellent climbing in the flare above builds to a a move or two over the small roof and a much-needed breather. Some of the best face climbing on the LTW follows, leading to a finicky move or two before the chains. Feb 28, 2015
C Miller   CA  
Flashed by Peter Mayfield in 1990. Local Max Dufford commented "It figures that it would be done by a Californian - who else but a granite climber would know those kinds of moves?" (Climbing Magazine #121). Aug 3, 2013
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
In the past I've taken the annoying fall trying to stand out on my left foot on the 'clipping stance' edge in the corner, but never while I was actually clipping the second bolt. The latter scenario could have unhappy results, so stick clipping the second bolt is probably actually a good idea. That said, I never seem to have one on hand when I want to lead this climb and end up just going for it. I would say that the bolts protect the entry move but most definitely not the second clip and great caution should be taken with it! Aug 15, 2012
blakeherrington
  5.12
blakeherrington  
  5.12
This route is amazing, but needs more traffic, especially on the upper half.

Stiff shoes and the ability to stand on your pinky toes will be key ingredients in sending. Jul 11, 2012