Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Dave Anderson, Donn Heller. FFA P1: Larry Kemp, Max Dufford, Jim Purdy
Page Views: 7,075 total · 37/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

The bolted dihedral left of Sagitarius and Iron Horse. Starts out with a SUPER technical crux using horribly small gastons, pinscars and smears for opposition. All the campusing power in the world won't get you off the ground on this thing. The body tension/insecurity fest continues to another crux pulling the first roof, then eases for a bit of very fun 10/11ish face climbing until the final crux, involving shallow locks and high steps through a small roof. Amazing!

Amandla, the 13b/c arete climb, follows Numbah 10 for the first 5 bolts, then breaks right.

I gave this a generic "5.12." The books give it 12b, which is a laughable sandbag; Index is burly, for sure. I'm not suggesting a rating change above because: a) I haven't redpointed it and b) who cares? But if your ego hurts after this one, just remember how much fun the route is and that it would be a 5.12c or d anywhere else.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Stick clip the second bolt if you like your face and ankles.

Photos