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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 641 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Balancy steep face moves to a thin crack (crux), then a 10c crack, followed by 5. 9 climbing up around the flake.

One can continue up the finish to Model Worker, or follow the original aid line (A3) out left for pitch two.

Location

Just left of the Numbah Ten dihedral.

Protection

Stick clip the first bolt, then thin gear to fist-sized cams.

Photos

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Stamati
Bellingham, WA
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
I wish I'd seen that. I played around on some of the holds and it felt just so so hard. Kerwin did some crazy dyno move to a two finger lock at the bottom of the crack. Do you know how Alex did it? Apr 18, 2016
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
Alex Honnold did a repeat of this route on the last weekend of March 2016. He figured out the moves quickly and redpointed second go, demonstrating his impressive ability on techy granite. He (sensibly) stickclipped the high 1st bolt, which means that anyone else planning to do this route can feel completely justified in doing the same. He did not comment on grade/difficulty.

This is almost certainly the first repeat in quite some time, but is it actually just the first repeat. Had the route previously seen a second ascent? Apr 12, 2016
kerwinl  
I gave the bottom of this thing a good scrubbing with a friend, and tried to find a way to get up to the thin crack. It feels mostly there, but one section seems to be devoid of all necessary holds. The guidebook mentions aid hooking breaking the rock here, maybe another piece broke off? Maybe it goes, maybe it does not, who knows. FWIW, the second bolt appears to be brand new, and likely got replaced along with 'Numbah Ten' next door. Nov 25, 2015
I've not heard of a redpoint of this route in the 21st century. I'd like to think I was wrong. Dec 15, 2013