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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Anderson, Bruce Carson, 1/73 FFA(p1): Larry Kemp, Max Dufford, Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer FFA(p3-4): Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 3,846 total · 35/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This is a classic 5 pitch excursion up the entirety of the lower wall. Most often only the spectacular first free pitch (via Japanese Gardens, .11+) is climbed. The original aid version had 5 pitches (C1/2, 5.11+). The free version really only has 4, as the crux second pitch is combined with the first. The runout bit is on the extended first pitch. An amazing line.

P1 (short/original): (.11+) The original pitch one is a good clean aid crack, but P1 is now most often done free by stepping left at the first anchor on Japanese Gardens and following shallow corners and cracks past 3 bolts and gear to an anchor (.11+).

P1 (full): (.13- R) The next section above the first anchor consists of a difficult height dependent bouldery section (5.12 to 5.13-, small gear,) followed by a runout mantle and stemming in a corner up to an anchor on a ledge. If free climbing, it is mandatory (safer, better) to climb this as part of one long pitch from the ground because of the possibility of a fall onto the anchor.

P2: (.10) This may originally have been part of P2 when done as an aid climb. Climb cracks and face, angling left to an anchor below the obvious corner start of the slab pitch (5.10-, slightly runout).

P3: (.11b/c) Fantastic, challenging pitch of slab and corner. Step left and up from the anchor and do a committing and slightly scary move back right to clip the first bolt. Continue up the corner via bolts and gear, then follow the left-trending dike until you can step right to a ledge with an anchor via slightly runout 5.9 climbing. Alternately, continue up the dike and over the roof to join Newest Industry. This pitch can be approached via P1-2 of Japanese Gardens as well and is well worth the trip either way.

P4: (.10d) This pitch climbs a slab past a bolt and some gear to a difficult mantle past a bolt (.10+). Above, cracks lead to an optional belay anchor (best not to stop here) and two slab options: 5.8 further right or 5.9 straight up past 2 bolts. Both lead to the anchor atop the wall.

Location

Start as for Japanese Gardens, which begins in a right facing corner down the trail and right of Sagittarius. It should be noted that the first real pitch of TPMV is C1/2 aid and is reputedly very enjoyable. It starts in thin cracks just to the right of Sagittarius.

It should also be noted that the original pitch 2 was freed in the past at a much more moderate grade but rockfall occurred, leaving the current interpretation.

Protection

Nuts and cams to #4 Camalot (for the section on Japanese Gardens) with emphasis on finger size cams; include RPs and tiny cams if attempting the .13- section.

Descent is usually possible with one 70m rope in this section of the wall, but for peace of mind bring two that are at least 60m. All anchors mentioned above are bolted and currently have chains.

Photos

Stamati A
Bellingham, WA
Stamati A   Bellingham, WA
P3 is super good and waay tough and also a little bit of a spicy meatball at the end if you join with Newest Industry. Amazing slab climbing. Sep 18, 2017
Nathan Hadley
  5.12+
Nathan Hadley  
  5.12+
Several months ago, Blake handed me a couple cams and a quickdraw and told me that I should try the crux of this pitch. Without knowing the grade, I TR'd up to the first anchors, adjusted them to be suitable to lead above, and balanced/crimped my way through the crux onsight. I was surprised to find out later that what I had done was given 5.13a. As much as I'd like to claim a 5.13 onsight, on gear, and at Index, I'm not sure if TPMV was 5.13 for me, and somewhat flexible 5'11" climber. That said, I have flashed up to V9, and it is a rather straightforward boulder. And I had ZERO pressure going into it! Was just expecting another Index 11+! More people should climb it! Sep 6, 2017
Nice job Kerwin! I vaguely recall thinking that taller folks wouldn't have as much trouble with crux, but since it took me 8 goes and I was regularly doing 13a in 2 goes or less, I graded it as such. Perhaps we should just call it 12+. I wouldn't want anyone to feel misguided about what 13a at Index should feel like. ;-> . And, I think in reference to NAO, it is probably a touch easier, though the two routes are like apples and oranges, or something like that. Aug 27, 2015
kerwinl
  5.13a R
kerwinl  
  5.13a R
For taller folks (I am 6') reaching the good holds at the end of the boulder problem on P2 is easier, but getting the feet up into a super scrunched position and not peeling off the tiny holds still feels difficult(I thought v6/7). Go try it out! May 4, 2015
blakeherrington
  5.13- PG13
blakeherrington  
  5.13- PG13
P2 isn't "R" for the 5.13- crux, which protects well with a BOMBER blue alien. It's a crux done above your gear, but most falls should be fine, though it's a bit runout above there on fun jugs.
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P3 is a nice pitch that deserves traffic as an LTW moderate. ~.10-

From the anchor atop P2 (which are also atop " It's a Dog's Life ...") and which is located 15' left of the top of J. Gardens P2:

Climb the overhanging and leaning finger crack (crux) then mantle up and left. Move up and left again around the left side of a major flake system. Face climb up and slightly right on a flake and knobs, and then work out left up the left edge of the flake until it ends, and you can face climb shortly to the anchor. 5.10b - Single set of cams and include some slings. Aug 18, 2014
For the Full 10% (i.e. the extension), it is mandatory to link the first and second pitches together. I fell off like 10 times while attempting the redpoint, and each of those falls from the crux took me past the first anchor. The trajectory of fall precludes belaying at the first 10% anchor. Please Note: there is 3" ledge just below the first anchor that is possible to tag with a heel or toe if one whips from the crux. On one of my falls I didn't have quite the clearance, and smashed my heel smack into the small ledge, which didn't feel that awesome after sailing through the air for 15'. Beware.

That said, I didn't use any small cams. I believe I protected the crux with a micronut. If you decide to place a cam instead (which will definitely work), there is less room to use the crack pocket for your fingers.

Yesterday I was up there and noticed the extension bush and greenery have really grown back. Fortunately, this area is small. Perhaps I'll head back up and do some cleaning soon.

Also, don't let the grade intimidate. It was one of those really hard to gauge routes. While the crux is potent, it is relatively short lived and balancy to boot. If you're taller than 5'6" I think that it would be perhaps only 5.12. Though, the only other ascent was by my buddy Tobias who is 5'4". Jan 6, 2014