Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: To first anchor: Andy Deklerk, 1991 Extension: Ben Gilkison, 2007
Page Views: 6,372 total · 50/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This brilliant route leaves Numbah Ten after several bolts (original locations have been altered) and heads right through a roof and up onto a technical arete that is just under vertical. Some ascents have likely climbed to the right after the roof to take advantage of a full rest on Iron Horse before moving back left to establish on the arete; this reduces the difficulty as it allows one to start the easier Powerhorse (Iron Horse linked into Amandla) sequence fully rested and fully chalked. If climbed directly without the jaunt right into the rest, the moves are harder and the route feels far more sustained. In any case, the climbing is a remarkable mixture of power and finesse, difficult nearly the whole way through. Temperature and humidity are both important considerations when attempting the route even if your granite technique is absolutely flawless.

The extension to the original route continues above the anchor over the roof past one bolt to a more logical finish at an anchor on a large ledge. The original anchor has now been moved higher, making what was originally a crux section of the extension part of the shorter version. This section is height dependent as it is much easier if one can stem right into the top of the Iron Horse corner. A small stopper and a finger-size cam protect the final section above the roof.

Location

One 70m rope reaches the ground from the top anchor; otherwise a 60m is sufficient. Route starts as for Numbah Ten in an obvious groove left of Iron Horse.

Protection

Originally 13 quickdraws plus anchor, there's now at least one extra bolt on the lower section. You'll need one more quickdraw plus a small nuts and TCU for the extension over the roof.

Photos

This pitch is amazing - it has to be one of the best single pitches of granite climbing anywhere. Definitely end this by climbing up and over the roof (either rightward or leftward), it provides a final redpoint crux just after anchor #1, and seems like the only logical finish. The original anchor spot doesn't make any sense. As to the 13a vs 13c question (depending on if you step right into Iron horse) There isn't an easy or obvious way to escape over into the Iron Horse flare. It may be possible, but sticking to the arete doesn't feel forced. Jan 10, 2015
Drewsky
  5.13c
Drewsky  
  5.13c
Comments about bolting were deleted because a discussion about it was had elsewhere. As it stands, Amandla has new bolts, some in quite different locations than before. There's definitely a bolt on the lower part of the arete where there wasn't one before and the one before the arete has been relocated down and to the right. The anchor has also been moved up underneath the roof, essentially including what had been the crux of the extension as part of the lower route. Feb 12, 2016
I'm not sure that it is a sandbag for the folks that stay in the flare. I've witnessed three successful non-knee baring ascents of Numba Ten since I moved them and no complaints. Feb 27, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I deleted comments that didn't seem helpful for the readers just wanting to find out about the route's qualities.

Sorry to take away from those who enjoyed the various arguments that were occurring here (yes, they were thoughtful and interesting), but it had gotten a bit long-winded and just didn't seem like the right place.

Perhaps the Pacific NW forum here on Mt. Proj. would be better for discussions about route changes and rebolting efforts at Index. Feb 29, 2016
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
A few of the bolts could use some wrenching, especially the one underneath the roof (the hanger was barely hanging on by a thread.) I'd also really recommend using some Loctite on stainless steel wedge bolts as they have a tendency to loosen up easily. I would of been happy to do the maintenance but I was just passing through without my normal kit. Dec 16, 2017