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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: To first anchor: Andy Deklerk, 1991 Extension: Ben Gilkison, 2007
Page Views: 5,242 total, 46/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This brilliant route leaves Numbah Ten after several bolts (original locations have been altered) and heads right through a roof and up onto a technical arete that is just under vertical. Some ascents have likely climbed to the right after the roof to take advantage of a full rest on Iron Horse before moving back left to establish on the arete; this reduces the difficulty as it allows one to start the easier Powerhorse (Iron Horse linked into Amandla) sequence fully rested and fully chalked. If climbed directly without the jaunt right into the rest, the moves are harder and the route feels far more sustained. In any case, the climbing is a remarkable mixture of power and finesse, difficult nearly the whole way through. Temperature and humidity are both important considerations when attempting the route even if your granite technique is absolutely flawless.

The extension to the original route continues above the anchor over the roof past one bolt to a more logical finish at an anchor on a large ledge. The original anchor has now been moved higher, making what was originally a crux section of the extension part of the shorter version. This section is height dependent as it is much easier if one can stem right into the top of the Iron Horse corner. A small stopper and a finger-size cam protect the final section above the roof.

Location

One 70m rope reaches the ground from the top anchor; otherwise a 60m is sufficient. Route starts as for Numbah Ten in an obvious groove left of Iron Horse.

Protection

Originally 13 quickdraws plus anchor, there's now at least one extra bolt on the lower section. You'll need one more quickdraw plus a small nuts and TCU for the extension over the roof.

Photos

Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
A few of the bolts could use some wrenching, especially the one underneath the roof (the hanger was barely hanging on by a thread.) I'd also really recommend using some Loctite on stainless steel wedge bolts as they have a tendency to loosen up easily. I would of been happy to do the maintenance but I was just passing through without my normal kit. 1 day ago
Stamati A
Bellingham, WA
Stamati A   Bellingham, WA
Steve Townshend sent this at last light last Thursday. Sep 20, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
I deleted comments that didn't seem helpful for the readers just wanting to find out about the route's qualities.

Sorry to take away from those who enjoyed the various arguments that were occurring here (yes, they were thoughtful and interesting), but it had gotten a bit long-winded and just didn't seem like the right place.

Perhaps the Pacific NW forum here on Mt. Proj. would be better for discussions about route changes and rebolting efforts at Index. Feb 29, 2016
I'm not sure that it is a sandbag for the folks that stay in the flare. I've witnessed three successful non-knee baring ascents of Numba Ten since I moved them and no complaints. Feb 27, 2016
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Comments about bolting were deleted because a discussion about it was had elsewhere. As it stands, Amandla has new bolts, some in quite different locations than before. There's definitely a bolt on the lower part of the arete where there wasn't one before and the one before the arete has been relocated down and to the right. The anchor has also been moved up underneath the roof, essentially including what had been the crux of the extension as part of the lower route. Feb 12, 2016
This pitch is amazing - it has to be one of the best single pitches of granite climbing anywhere. Definitely end this by climbing up and over the roof (either rightward or leftward), it provides a final redpoint crux just after anchor #1, and seems like the only logical finish. The original anchor spot doesn't make any sense. As to the 13a vs 13c question (depending on if you step right into Iron horse) There isn't an easy or obvious way to escape over into the Iron Horse flare. It may be possible, but sticking to the arete doesn't feel forced. Jan 10, 2015