5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 4 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Andy Deklerk, 1991 Extension: Ben Gilkison, 2007|
|Page Views:||9,620 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
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This brilliant route leaves Numbah Ten after several bolts (original locations have been altered) and heads right through a roof and up onto a technical arete that is just under vertical. It's possible that some ascents have climbed to the right after the roof to take advantage of a full rest on Iron Horse before moving back left to establish on the arete; although not totally straightforward, this reduces the difficulty as it allows one to start the easier Powerhorse sequence fully rested and chalked. If climbed directly without the jaunt right into the rest, the moves are harder and the route feels far more sustained. In any case, the climbing is a remarkable mixture of power and finesse, difficult nearly the whole way through. Temperature and humidity are both important considerations when attempting the route even if your granite technique is absolutely flawless.
The extension to the original route continues above the anchor over the roof past one bolt to a more logical finish at an anchor on a large ledge. The original anchor has now been moved higher to just under the upper roof, making what was originally a crux section of the extension part of the shorter version. This section is height dependent as it is much easier if one can simply stem across the corner. A small stopper and a finger-size cam protect the final section above the roof.