Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: To ringing flake: Pat Timson. FFA to roof: Mark Moore. FFA P1 full: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson. P2: Terry Lien, Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 13,184 total · 84/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Description

Just to the left of Japanese Gardens is this obvious line of hand cracks and traversing roofs. Start on the ledges above the big stump on the trail and lieback a wide flare for about 10 feet to a short finger crack. Move right into a sweet steep handcrack, up into a wide (6"?) crack that traverses left. Clip the fixed chock before the traverse, and walk a # 5 Camalot to the end if you want to protect this section, or drag will become an issue. At the end of the traverse there is a set of anchors. Skip this and get into the chimney above it. Walk your #5 up this section again until the chimney narrows and you step out onto the face to commit to the perfect handcrack above. You'll hit the "ringing flake" here. Spooky. The handcrack cruises through it to the anchor up above (from which you can TR Iron Horse, too). A 5.11 variation goes through the roof above this anchor.

Protection

Several hand-size pieces (at least double #2 Camalots and maybe double #3s to sew it), a few smaller cams, and a healthy selection of large cams. A #5, while not necessary, would ease the mind a bit.
Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
  5.11b
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
  5.11b
The full first pitch (5.11b) is one of the best on the lower wall. This pitch has everything you could ever want on a climb. It's the only climb I have ever enjoyed that I place a #3, #3.5, #4, and a #4.5 camalot on. Mar 13, 2006
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.10a/b
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.10a/b
A fellow climber aptly described this amazing route as "a voyage." It takes you through so many big, improbable features that by the time you reach the final stretch of steep handcrack, you'll feel as though it was twice as long. Shorter folk will get an extra thrill on the traverse under the roof, as you may not reach the undercling to use for balance.

Gearwise, I find that placing a #3.5 in lieu of clipping the chockstone inspires a bit more confidence for the wide section til you can get a #4 at the roof. A #5 is bomber for the chimney and a few .75's and #1's are nice in the upper handcrack. A single #3 was sufficient but you could probably place another if you bring more. Jul 28, 2012
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This is also really fun if finished via the upper roof of Iron Horse by stepping left from the first Sagittarius anchor. Jun 26, 2013
MorganH
 
MorganH  
 
Don't listen to Aaron's gear beta. Place a 3.5 or a 4 slightly to the right of the middle of the traverse and run the rope behind the flake, it won't bind. Aug 29, 2013
ehhaole
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
ehhaole   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Excellent, physical pitch with a bit of everything. Not the best choice for beginning leaders. (Nickname: 'Saggiscary-us.')

It is also possible to leave a #4 camalot midway through the main traverse and run the rope /outside/ of the chimney (attached by long sling). If done right this can result in very little rope drag--gear inside chimney then becomes the rope drag concern; use more long slings for any gear placed inside the chimney, and/or wait until you step back out of it to place more gear.

The roof finish to the right is worthwhile and the fixed piton seems to hold falls. Good rest and one or two small cam placement possibilities above the short but airy crux, then a licheny, balancey mantle to the chains. Apr 17, 2014
From the anchor at the full P1, great climbing(.10+/11-) leads up and left for 20' to the major ledge atop full Iron Horse. Bring a couple small wires or small cams. The climbing is a fun mix of arete compression on twin aretes, and stemming. Link with P1 if rope drags allows, or bring up your partner and do this as the start of P2 Iron Horse. Dec 16, 2014