Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien
Page Views: 204 total · 19/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 11, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Description

Having MiniTraxioned this route a couple of times in the (increasingly distant) past, I thought it might be worth adding in case anyone else has experience with it. It was a little scruffy when I climbed it, but someone had cleaned it somewhat recently and it was still possible to at least toprope it clean. From the anchor atop Japanese Gardens P2 move left and up to a short, thin crack. Even though I remember thinking some gear might go in before you commit, the business starts without any fanfare and on lead the crack would be a scary, desperate lieback above a ledge with a hard-to-clip bolt near its top. The route then climbs over to and up onto the face of the Stiff Kittens Flake and follows a seam/crack to the top of the flake. I remember this section being low-to-mid-5.10 face climbing and it appeared quite runout. Another option would be to just finish Stiff Kittens, which would omit the worst of the runout. I know that at the top of the flake I stepped left and down and finished on the Stiff Kittens slab, so I don't know if there is an independent finish directly above. I believe if it were scrubbed the route would at the very least be a fun toprope option, say after doing Japanese Gardens to the top, Stiff Kittens or maybe even from the top of TPMV P3 if the final bolt works as a directional.

Location

Above the anchor of Japanese Gardens P2, the beginning of this route is an obvious short thin crack up and left with a bolt next to it near its top.

Protection

As stated I haven't led the route, but the lower crux finger crack/lieback is thrutchy and desperate from the get go and it was obvious to me that gear would probably be really hard to place once underway. The bolt would similarly be hard to clip and its status is unknown at this juncture. The upper part of the route is pretty runout; I don't remember seeing much potential for gear but it does follow a seam or crack of sorts so there might be something. Another option as stated above would be to climb the rest of Stiff Kittens which has good gear. There may or may not be an independent anchor for Cheeseburgers, but I remember stepping left--again on MiniTraxion so take with a grain of salt--to finish on the upper Stiff Kittens slab. In any case this route would probably need a mandatory scrubbing and inspection, including the bolt, before attempting a lead.

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