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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Anderson, John Teasdale. FFA P1: Terry Lien, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 1,676 total, 14/month
Shared By: Scott W on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Awesome tight fingers to start, boulder move crux with a pin. Finish up an 11a offwidth/chimey/flaring corner, FUN. Aside from the boulder move the route is consistent and really fun.

Location

This route is directly above Model Worker and can be reached as such. Or do an easier route and rappel down into it via the Newest Industry slab anchors.

Protection

Gear to 3/4", double small stuff...maybe tripples in small stuff and really light on the .5-.75 inch gear.

Photos

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Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11c
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.11c
I tried this today on TR solo. This pitch is awesome and has some of the coolest moves I've ever done. At 6'4" the upper flare felt like the crux for me, I'm not sure how to approach it! While I'm not sure if my beta was correct, it definitely felt harder than other routes of this grade I've done at Index. Currently a little scruffy but totally climbable. Feb 15, 2017
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
This pitch is now much cleaner. Most of the lichen is gone and the cracks and ledge are cleared of most dirt and plants. Aug 29, 2016
Ben Kunz
  5.11c
Ben Kunz  
  5.11c
Beta is all correct and appreciated! A great, very consistent pitch and definitely agree with the classic status.

I found the crux to be very hard - definitely deserves the Index 11c rating! I "walked up" to this climb hoping for a crushing good time. Instead I got a solid Index beat down! Ego bruising aside, this climb deserves much more attention. Aug 18, 2016
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
I have to agree with Blake here. Amazing pitch!

I cannot wait to go back and do this again. I am not sure if I did it "right" today or not, but one of the coolest moves I have made in my rock climbing experience.

Given how simple this was to get to, I cannot believe it is not mentioned more often. Judging by some of the lichen, and might not get done TOO often but to call it dirty would go way to far. A strong climber can EASILY get to the chains at the base of the pitch via Blake's instructions.

Very well protected with small cams. Can be aided if you want to give up (don't!), and a nice set of chains at the top. What more to like?

Piton seemed solid today but I didn't test it very much ;) Oct 25, 2015
This pitch is mega classic, but never gets done!

If you just climb Princely and then do a 5.5 rightward traverse for 10-15m you're standing at the base. Jan 10, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The route still protects really well despite the pin(s) being gone. Small cams are the ticket at the lower crux, but I do remember using a larger cam or two in the upper squeeze/flared section. Jun 26, 2013
Eric8
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
Broke the pin in the 11a flare today. Aug 24, 2008