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Areas in Skykomish Valley

Deception Falls 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gold Bar Boulders 1 / 0 / 1 / 160 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 160
Index 299 / 138 / 28 / 49 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 453
Morpheus 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
No Name Crags 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Paradise Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Prospect Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Static Point 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Zeke's Wall 7 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 201 ft
GPS: 47.843, -121.696 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 572,317 total, 11,633/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Nov 29, 2013 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

Region along State Highway 2, from Monroe to Stevens Pass, which includes the Skykomish River Valley. The valley has great bouldering, sport, and trad climbing. Most of the climbable rock is granite, but the rock at No Name and nearby crags is instead similar to that at Little Si in North Bend.

Getting There

All of these areas will be accessed from state highway 2, coming either from the west, through Monroe, or from the east, from Leavenworth and over Stevens Pass.

Some Aural Psych

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uGIkv4jtZw

654 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Skykomish Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pisces
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Senior Citizens in Space
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Godzilla
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toxic Shock
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast of Champions
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagittarius
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rattletale
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovin' Arms
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Davis-Holland Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cunning Stunt
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slow Children
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thin Fingers
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Even Steven
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pisces Index > Lower Town Wall > Great Northern Slab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Senior Citizens in Space Index > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Princely Ambitions Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Godzilla Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Toxic Shock Index > Inner Walls > Toxic - Tang Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Breakfast of Champions Index > Lower Town Wall > Great Northern Slab 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sagittarius Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rattletale Index > Lookout Point Area > Rattletale Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lovin' Arms Index > Upper Town Wall > Central Wall Area 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Davis-Holland Route Index > Upper Town Wall > Central Wall Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Cunning Stunt Index > Country Area > Country 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Slow Children Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Thin Fingers Index > Lower Town Wall > Narrow Arrow and further right 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Even Steven Index > Inner Walls > Toxic - Tang Area 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Japanese Gardens Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Skykomish Valley »

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Photos

River Boulders...

I am predominately a whitewater kayaker, and am writing predominately as such. With that said I am also an avid climber, and am writing as an ambassador of sorts between both of these amazing sports.

With that said, I recently came across 2 bolts on rocks that are probably underwater now, and if not then they will be in the next couple of days. I assume it was for the purpose of slack lining over the river, and I can't honestly blame anyone for wanting to do that it sounds like fun. But placing the bolts in the river is a huge safety hazard to everyone involved.

From a whitewater perspective at flows between 3,000cfs and 5,000cfs there is a really good chance that one of the bolts right on top of a rock in the center of what is at that point the main flow of the river could seriously injure a swimmer, as they smash into it anywhere on their body, or it becomes caught on their gear. Or tear a raft in any number of ways, or crack a kayak as we try to jump off the rock. None of which are in any way desirable obviously. The other bolt isn't in what would be considered the main flow however these risks are still very much so present at similar flows.

From a climbers perspective all of those rocks you call the River Boulders are underwater for a few weeks minimum every year when the Skykomish (and most of the PNW) floods in the fall and spring. That's part of what creates the really cool unique texture in the rock. But the damage done by a flooding river and all the sediment and debris the river brings down with it would seriously impact the integrity of the bolt. Imagine falling into the river and having your slack line get tangled around you as you are dragged thru the current, it's not pleasant I can tell you from similar experiences. Or relying on it for safety while climbing a high ball route and the bolt breaks. Obviously no one wants either of those to happen to them.

The point I'm ultimately trying to convey here is that any where a bolt would end up underwater, or even close, for prolonged periods is a risk to both the whitewater and climbing communities. I am not angry at whoever did this, and I have already removed the bolts, I am only trying to educate. Thank you for taking the time to read this, and I will be posting this write up in various places. Feel free to share elsewhere if you want to help spread the word. Oct 10, 2017

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