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Areas in Skykomish Valley

Deception Falls 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gold Bar Boulders 2 / 0 / 1 / 167 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 167
Index 302 / 140 / 28 / 49 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 459
Morpheus 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
No Name Crags 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Paradise Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Prospect Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Static Point 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Zeke's Wall 7 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Description [Edit]

Region along State Highway 2, from Monroe to Stevens Pass, which includes the Skykomish River Valley. The valley has great bouldering, sport, and trad climbing. Most of the climbable rock is granite, but the rock at No Name and nearby crags is instead similar to that at Little Si in North Bend.

Getting There [Edit]

All of these areas will be accessed from state highway 2, coming either from the west, through Monroe, or from the east, from Leavenworth and over Stevens Pass.

667 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Skykomish Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 193
Senior Citizens in Space
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 262
Princely Ambitions
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 331
Godzilla
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 213
Toxic Shock
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 161
Breakfast of Champions
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 126
Sagittarius
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 135
Rattletale
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
 107
Lovin' Arms
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 156
Davis-Holland Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 142
Cunning Stunt
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 110
Slow Children
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 86
Zoom
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 179
Thin Fingers
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 95
Even Steven
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 123
Japanese Gardens
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Senior Citizens in Space Index > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
 193
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Princely Ambitions Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side
 262
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Godzilla Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side
 331
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Toxic Shock Index > Inner Walls > Toxic - Tang Area
 213
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Breakfast of Champions Index > Lower Town Wall > Great Northern Slab
 161
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sagittarius Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side
 126
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rattletale Index > Lookout Point Area > Rattletale Wall
 135
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Lovin' Arms Index > Upper Town Wall > Central Wall Area
 107
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Davis-Holland Route Index > Upper Town Wall > Central Wall Area
 156
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Cunning Stunt Index > Country Area > Country
 142
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Slow Children Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side
 110
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Zoom Index > Country Area > Country
 86
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Thin Fingers Index > Lower Town Wall > Narrow Arrow and furt…
 179
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Even Steven Index > Inner Walls > Toxic - Tang Area
 95
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Japanese Gardens Index > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side
 123
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Skykomish Valley »

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River Boulders...

I am predominately a whitewater kayaker, and am writing predominately as such. With that said I am also an avid climber, and am writing as an ambassador of sorts between both of these amazing sports.

With that said, I recently came across 2 bolts on rocks that are probably underwater now, and if not then they will be in the next couple of days. I assume it was for the purpose of slack lining over the river, and I can't honestly blame anyone for wanting to do that it sounds like fun. But placing the bolts in the river is a huge safety hazard to everyone involved.

From a whitewater perspective at flows between 3,000cfs and 5,000cfs there is a really good chance that one of the bolts right on top of a rock in the center of what is at that point the main flow of the river could seriously injure a swimmer, as they smash into it anywhere on their body, or it becomes caught on their gear. Or tear a raft in any number of ways, or crack a kayak as we try to jump off the rock. None of which are in any way desirable obviously. The other bolt isn't in what would be considered the main flow however these risks are still very much so present at similar flows.

From a climbers perspective all of those rocks you call the River Boulders are underwater for a few weeks minimum every year when the Skykomish (and most of the PNW) floods in the fall and spring. That's part of what creates the really cool unique texture in the rock. But the damage done by a flooding river and all the sediment and debris the river brings down with it would seriously impact the integrity of the bolt. Imagine falling into the river and having your slack line get tangled around you as you are dragged thru the current, it's not pleasant I can tell you from similar experiences. Or relying on it for safety while climbing a high ball route and the bolt breaks. Obviously no one wants either of those to happen to them.

The point I'm ultimately trying to convey here is that any where a bolt would end up underwater, or even close, for prolonged periods is a risk to both the whitewater and climbing communities. I am not angry at whoever did this, and I have already removed the bolts, I am only trying to educate. Thank you for taking the time to read this, and I will be posting this write up in various places. Feel free to share elsewhere if you want to help spread the word. Oct 10, 2017

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